GRAN TURISMO 2 COMPENDIUM (Sony Playstation)
by John Culbert
*The Following work is dedicated to Canadian CART racecar driver Greg Moore, who
was killed in a crash at Fontana California during the final race of the 1999
season, on October 31st. From a fellow Canadian racedriver, rest in peace Greg,
you will be missed. Please indulge me and read the end of the Compendium for my
thoughts on this tragedy.*
Wanna talk? You can contact me on IRC (Internet Relay Chat) as tigeraid, on
channels #cars, #fighters.net, #vfhome, #tekken and #capcom.
MONOSPACE, DAMMIT! :) If the dots above line up with the numbers above them,
then you can read this document with ease. If they aren't lined up, the margins
will be all screwy and generally make this a bitch to read. It was created using
Editpad with "Break Lines" on, and as such it is best viewed by this.
I'm getting sick of the bullshit going around with others stealing FAQ
writer's hard work without permission or credit. A certain unmentionable
gaming mag stole SFA2 stuff from me a while ago (*ahem*EGM*cough*hack), and on-
line people who don't want to put effort into doing this stuff also
copied from me (this means you, Davis!!) So here it is:
All work and information contained within this document Copyright 1999
John Culbert unless otherwise stated.
This FAQ is for private and personal use only. It can only be
reproduced electronically, and if placed on a web page or site, may be
altered as long as this disclaimer and the above copyright notice
appears in full. Any information used from this document, quoted or no,
should have this author's name somewhere clearly as acknowledgement. Feel
free to distribute between others, but this FAQ is not to be used for
profitable/promotional purposes; this includes being used by publishers of
magazines, guides, books, etc. or being incorporated into magazines, etc.
in ANY way.
This document was created by John Culbert . Give
credit where it is due.
Gran Turismo and Gran Turismo 2 are trademarks (tm) of Sony Computer
Entertainment of America Inc. (SCEA) 1999-2000, and developed by Polyphony
Digital. All manufacturers, car names, brands and associated imagery are
trademarks and/or copryright their respective owners.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1.0 - Version Updates
2.0 - Introduction
3.0 - News and Frequently Asked Questions
4.0 - The graphics and Sound
5.0 - New Additions to Gran Turismo Gameplay
6.0 - The Tracks - Track Strategies
7.0 - Car Discussion
7.1 - Alfa Romeo
7.2 - Aston Martin
7.3 - Audi
7.4 - BMW
7.5 - Chevrolet
7.6 - Citroen
7.7 - Daihatsu
7.8 - Dodge
7.9 - Fiat
7.10 - Ford/Mercury
7.11 - Honda / Acura
7.12 - Jaguar
7.13 - Lancia
7.14 - Lister
7.15 - Lotus
7.16 - Mitsubishi
7.17 - Mazda
7.18 - Nissan
7.19 - Mercedes-Benz
7.20 - Peugeot
7.21 - Plymouth
7.22 - Renault
7.23 - Mini / MG
7.24 - RUF
7.25 - Shelby American
7.26 - Subaru
7.27 - Suzuki
7.28 - Tommy Kaira
7.29 - Toyota
7.30 - TVR
7.31 - Vauxhall
7.32 - Vector
7.33 - Venturi
7.34 - Volkswagon
8.0 - Car Types
8.1 - Front Engine, Rear Wheel Drive
8.2 - Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive
8.3 - Mid Engine, Rear Wheel Drive
8.4 - Front Engine, All Wheel Drive
9.0 - Basics of Driving
9.1 - Automatic Transmission
9.2 - Manual Transmission
9.3 - Braking
10.0 - Driving Techniques
10.1 - "Apexing the Turn" -- how to best navigate a corner
10.2 - Sliding through corners
10.3 - Navigating the S-Turn
10.4 - General Tips Cornering with RWD
10.5 - General Tips Cornering with AWD
10.6 - General Tips Cornering with FWD
10.7 - Cornering with traffic
10.8 - Drafting
10.9 - Differences in handling with the Dual Shock
11.0 - Car Rankings/Opinions
11.1 - Best RWD car
11.2 - Best FWD car
11.3 - Best AWD car
11.4 - fastest car (top speed)
11.5 - best stockcar
11.6 - best power/weight ratio
12.0 - Parts
12.1 - Exhaust
12.2 - Brakes
12.3 - Engine
12.4 - Drivetrain
12.5 - Turbochargers
12.6 - Suspensions
12.7 - Tires
12.8 - Others
12.9 - For Professionals
13.0 - Car Setup (Simulation Mode)
14.0 - Simulation Mode Races/Cups
15.0 - Arcade Mode Tips and Cars
16.0 - Around the Web--additions from the readers
17.0 - GAMESHARK CODES
18.0 - Resources, Places to look on the web for GT2 Info
19.0 - Credits/Wrap up
1.0 VERSION UPDATES
0.5 - beta version of the Compendium, previewing Gran Turismo 2
0.7 - still in beta. Changed info on GT2 being 2 discs (oops), added more
cars to the car list, finished the (hopefully) confirmed tracks and courses
list, and some more info on each manufacturer. Also added more resources.
0.8 - Added list of confirmed artists for the Gran Turismo 2 soundtrack. Also
some more info on Lister, and some various news updates.
0.9 - added buncha info on some of the manufacturers, as well as little News
0.99 - KICK ASS CONFIRMED LIST OF CARS UPDATED! Sony Entertainment released
another list of confirmed cars, tons more, including some real suprises--check
it out in section 7.0!!!!
0.9999 - info (from all the sources I could possibly find) to try and determine
if the game has been delayed past december 7th... see section 2.0 below.
0.9999b - welp december 7/8 is gone and no GT2... but Sony made another
statement, and things may be looking up... see section 2.0.
1.0 - The game is out as of December 16-18 in North America!! This update will
begin the additions of actual strategy to this Compendium. Similar to my Gran
Turismo Compendium, the Gran Turismo 2 Compendium will now feature the basics of
driving, course strategies, prizes for each class, and any other information
recieved as I progress in the game. Feel free to send me any information you
have found and I will consider posting it in this document.
NOTE: I WILL BE ADDING GAMESHARK CODES NEXT UPDATE!
1.2 - Confirmed Drag Racing has been removed from Gran Turismo 2 :(....
apparently it ended up being unfinished due to time constraints (if you can believe
that crap), and that explains the presence of the Nissan drag cars and the Intrepid
Pro Stock... oh well. On a lighter note, little odds and ends, typos and mistakes have
been fixed, and GAMESHARK CODES HAVE BEEN ADDED. See section 16.0 for some info on
how you can contribute your info to this Compendium!
1.4 - some general typos and mistakes fixed (oops), completed prize car
list and added some submissions to section 16.0... let's keep 'em coming people!
1.6 - Revised Prize Car list and Arcade Mode Cars list, updated section 16.0
with reader submissions, and an example car review of my own. Also added Replay
Views trick in section 3.0 and Garage Organization Trick in section 14.0.
1.7 - fixed silly mistake with Replay View trick, updated sponsor list and Prize
Car List, and added some more GameShark codes. Also added some more car
reviews and explained LSD, Traction and Yaw Control in section 13.0.
Well, die-hard GT fans like myself already know that Gran Turismo 2 is the
greatest racing game of all time. While retaining essentially the same game
engine in terms of car physics and control, Sony has added to what we thought
was close to a perfect game, to come up with GT2. It plays the same
in terms of control, but has now been improved ten-fold. Gran Turismo 2 now
offers nearly 600 cars from practically every manufacturer on the planet (and
those that aren't here are missing for licencing reasons, which I'll discuss
later), as well as special edition, race-spec, and rally cars. And THANKFULLY
for us ol' domestic tuners who played the '67 427 Corvette and yearn for more,
there are now many classic muscle and sports cars included. Not to mention a
plethora of hidden cars that are difficult to aquire, but certainly worth
There's also the addition of several new tracks and courses, included an uphill
climb at the legendary Pikes Peak, some dirt rally courses, and including our
old favorite tracks from the original GT for over 20 tracks (that's almost 50
including the reverse tracks) in total to choose from.
And there's much more... needless to say I, along with every other GT fan, have
awaited this game with drooling mouths. Read on racefans, this Compendium will
fill you in on all the new goodies so far known about this highly anticipated
game as well as detailed racing strategies.
3.0 NEWS AND FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
There are two very prominent types of cars missing in Gran Turismo 2, and one
that's still kind of sketchy. In regards to Porsche and Ferrari, Electronic
Arts as exclusive rights on both and therefore they cannot be featured in GT2...
Note however that EA does not reserve the rights to RUF, a high performance
PORSCHE manufacturer--so Sony managed to find a back door, and RUF Porsches only
are featured in Gran Turismo 2 ;). Ferrari appears to be a no go however.
The Third refers to the Chevrolet C5 Corvette. The C5 stands for 5th generation
Corvette, built from 1997-2000 and featuring the awesome 345 horse (advertised,
it's actually higher), all-aluminum LS1 5.7 L (346 cubic inch) V8. While it's
not listed on the official cars list for GT2, reports are that it may still be
in the game. Apparently, EA also owns the rights to the C5 Corvette, however
others have mentioned seeing it in preliminary videos for Gran Turismo 2...
>From all accounts, it appears it indeed did not make the cut... maybe next time :/.
Oh and BTW, The Mercedes CLK GTR appears to have been removed due to licencing
conflicts, again wtih EA... the original beta screen shots showed it was in the
game, but has apparently been removed. Mind you, gameshark hackers have found it
buried in the code...
I suppose I should mention that Lamborghini is not in the game for similar
SPECIAL MODES AND SPECIAL VEHICLES:
The new modes of racing in GT2 are, among others: Rally, Hill Climb, GT, and
sportscar... they're all pretty self-explanitory.
Note: Sony made an official statement saying Drag Racing Mode was not
completed and thus it's not in the game, despite the drag racing models.
Another early rumor was that SUVs would be included in the game. The rumor has
been proved factual, with the existance of the Subaru Forester, Daihatsu Foroza
and several others.
REPLAY VIEWS TRICK: to access the special views available during replays, press
the Circle button (Hand Brake), then press Square (Brake) to cycle through the
extra views. They include a copter cam from directly overhead, and cameras from
all four corners of the car, facing rear and forward. You can also press
throttle (X) to toggle the tach/readings and press again to get a set of
gauges showing brake and throttle applied. Cool stuff.
Gran Turismo 2 is TWO discs, arcade and simulation. As well, the NegCon and the various
types of Steering Wheel periphirals are compatable, along with the usual digital and analog
Similar to GT1, but with far more, GT2 features several automotive sponsors on
the cars and on the courses. Here is a confirmed list:
Advan Alitalia Alpine Autobacs
BBS BP Brembo Bridgestone
Castrol Cibie Denso Dunlop
elf Enkei Esso Exxon
Falken Fet Gulf Havoline
Kenwood Magnetti Marelli Masterfit
Michelin Mobile MOMO Motul
Movistar Oz Pennzoil Pirelli
Potenza Puma Quaker State Rays
Red Line Racing Red Line Synthetic Speedline Texaco
Total Toyo Tires Trampio Valeo
Vodafone Yokohama Bosch
Many popular in-house and aftermarket tuning companies are now featured in Gran
Turismo 2. Here is the confirmed list:
AMG Audi Sport
Fiat Auto Corse
Ford Racing HKS
Lister Sport Lotus
Mazda Speed Mine's
TRD TVR Racing
The Confirmed Modified models in the game are listed under Car List and
Discussions. (eg. Mugen under Honda/Acura)
4.0 THE GRAPHICS
While Gran Turismo completely blew us away with its smooth graphics and
attention to detail, it really was only using 75% of the Playstation's hardware
capability. Gran Turismo 2, on the other hand is using basically 100% of the
Sony platform's abilities, and you can see the even more amazing detail and
smoothness in the game, apparent through the screen shots and videos currently
available on line (see resources for locations).
Attention to detail certainly was paramount this time around. For example, in
Gran Turismo the wheels on the car were basically a flat surface meeting with
the sidewall of the tire. In Gran Turismo 2, the wheels look quite realistic
and have the 3d appearance that shows their depth inward towards the hub. Other
details such as badging and logos on the car are now easily made out from all
camera angles and during the replays. The cars in the game also have a
smoother, more refined look to them, and are also a little more balanced in
terms of scaling, meaning they look more true to their real life counterparts in
the way of size. Certainly pure eye candy.
The sound, needless to say, is pure heaven. Polyphony took the time to
carefully record the exhaust notes of every single car in the game from the real
thing, at each stage of acceleration, deceleration, revving, etc etc... Nothing
like the sound of a Chevrolet smallblock in the 1969 Camaro Z28 in full
song, to the tune of 6000 RPM ^_^.
5.0 NEW ADDITIONS TO GRAN TURISMO GAMEPLAY
The real major jump in gameplay is in the form of modifying your ride, either
for performance or asthetics. For example, a new feature allows you to adjust
the Limited Slip Differential... See section 12.0.
6.0 THE TRACKS
One of the more intriguing features now in GT2 is the variety of tracks and
courses available. There are now 24-25 tracks available, much improved over the
original. The tracks include uphill tracks such as Pike's Peak, rally courses
like Tahiti, some new street and road courses, legendary Grand Prix circuits
like Laguna Seca, plus the original tracks from GT1.
High Speed Ring
Seattle Short Course
Rome Short Course
Red Rock Valley Speedway
Laguna Seca Raceway
Apricot Hill Raceway
Trial Mountain Circuit
Clubman Stage Route 5
Grand Valley East
Grand Valley Speedway
Special Stage Route 5
Deep Forest Raceway
Autumn Ring Mini
Tahiti Dirt Road Route 3
Smokey Mountain South
Green Forest Roadway
Smokey Mountain North
Pikes Peak Hill Climb
Tahiti Dirt Route 3 Reverse
Smokey Mountain North Reverse
Pikes Peak Downhill
7.0 CAR LIST AND DISCUSSIONS
7.1 ALFA ROMEO
The 155 Touring Car is.... certainly interesting. A decent handler, it also
revs around 14,000 RPM...
1998 145 2.0 Cloverleaf
1998 156 2.0 TS 16V
1998 156 2.5 V6 24V
1998 166 2.0 TS 16V
1998 166 2.5 V6 24V
1998 166 3.0 V6 24V
1998 GTV 2.0 TS 16V
1998 GTV 3.0 V6 24V
1998 Spider 2.0 TS
1998 155 2.0 TS 16V
1995 155 Touring Car
7.2 ASTON MARTIN
While the DB7 in GT1 was really not that impressive, it reappears again in
GT2... the major addition here is in the form of the Aston Martin Vantage, an
incredible concept car that can certainly compete with the Mercedes CLK GTR.
The DB6, needless to say, is interesting to drive ;)...
One that I'm enjoying myself, with the ability to modify these great
handling AWD Euro cars... the Quattro in particular. The new S4 sleeper is also
included, and can be tuned to 600+ horsepower with the turbo ;).
A3 1.8 T Sport
A4 Avant 2.8 Quattro
Both the 5 and 3 series are available here, but unfortunately for you bimmer
guys, the M cars didn't make it for some reason :/.
323ci Coupe (E46)
323 Coupe (E36)
323ti Compact (E36)
328ci Coupe (E46)
328i Sedan (E46)
Thankfully they have expanded the Chevrolets in this game, featuring some
classic muscle along with the current performance cars. While I'm happy the
extra Camaros and Vettes are here, ESPECIALLY the spectacular 69 Z28 with the
high-revving 302 smallblock, I TRULY hope that they found a way to stick the C5
in here, though no evidence of it has been seen yet.
But then AGAIN, the 195 mph ZR-1 with its all aluminum 32 valve DOHC 5.7 L V8
pushing almost 410 horsepower is also in, so maybe that'll satisfy me ;).
1997 Camaro Z28 Coupe LT1
1997 Camaro SS LT1
1996 Camaro Z28 30th Anniversary LT1
1969 Camaro Z28
1996 Corvette Coupe LT4
1996 Corvette Grand Sport LT4
1967 Corvette Stingray 427
1969 Corvette Stingray 427 (darn, it's "only" the L88, not the ZL-1 ;)
1982 Corvette Stingray
1995 Corvette ZR-1 LT5 (YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!)
Welp... it's... a Citroen... :) They offer a small selection of front wheel
drive, low horsepower cars, as well as a nice rally car.
Saxo 1.6I VTS
Saxo F2 Kit Car
Xantia 3.0I V6
Xsara 1.8I 16V
A bunch of small, low horsepower cars, but certainly good bases for mild
buildups. The Midget is... interesting...
1998 Mira TR(AWD)
1998 Move Custom, AeroDown Custom
1997 Opti,Club Sports(2WD)
1997 Opti,Club Sports(AWD)
1998 Opti, AeroDown Beex?AWD?
1998 Terioskid, Aerodown
Midget II, D-type
Thankfully they've also expanded Dodge to not only include great classics like
the Charger and Challenger, but also some of the more common late model cars
like the Neon and the Avenger. RWD modified versions of the Avenger are quite
popular in high classes of drag racing, and while we'll have to stick with the
FWD formula in GT2, it's still capable of some great performance. When the
Intrepid is Race modified, it becomes an NHRA Pro Stock dragster! ... just too
bad it can only be modded to a cruddy 550 hp instead of the ~2000 in a
Pro Stock :/.
1998 Viper GTS-R LM
1999 STP TAISAN Viper JGTC
Concept Car (Copperhead)
Makes a mean rally car...
1998 500 Sporting
Coupe 2.0 20V Turbo
While I (and most other car enthusiasts) find the new Mustang really ugly, and
in stock form is still not anywhere near the performer as its LS1 competition
from Chevy and Pontiac, it's good to see it in GT2, because there's a very large
number of Mustang fans who modify these pony cars for handling and speed... I'll
be interested to see what all can be done to it. I'm also happy to see the new
Cougar in here, IMO the only stylish car currently made by Ford. It's also one
of the best handling FWD cars on the planet, albeit an underpowered one...
Oh and of course, the GT-40, an absolutely amazing GT racing car from the 60s
and early 70s, is also in ;).
Note: by the way, race modding the 1999 Taurus SHO will get you a certain
Valvoline-sponsored #6 Winston Cup Ford Taurus ;). Then again, like the
Intrepid Pro Stock, it's looks only... it can only be modded to a pitiful
300+ hp, and it's still damn FWD... a total joke, unfortunate when it COULD
have been a RWD car with a Naturally Aspirated, 358 cid smallblock V8 making
over 750 hp ;).
1998 Cougar 2.5i 24V
1967 Cougar XR-7
Escort 1.8 Gti
Escort RS200 Rally Car
1999 Focus Rally
Focus Zetec 1.8
Contour Ghia X
Mondeo Touring Car
Puma 1.7i DOHC
1998 Mustang GT
1999 Mustang GT
1998 Mustang SVT Cobra
1999 Mustang SVT Cobra
1999 Mustang Saleen SR Widebody
1999 Taurus SHO
1967 LM Gulf GT-40
GT90 Concept Car
7.11 HONDA / ACURA
Large variety of cars as usual, now including the new S2000 roadster, and some
gay cars like the Beat and Life. Lotsa variety with the NSX, although race mods
are not plentiful for the Acuras, which certainly sucks.
NSX '92,Type R
1997 NSX ,Type S
1997 NSX ,Type S Zero
1995 Integra, SiR-G
1995 Integra,Type R
1998 Integra Sir-G
1998 Integra Type R
1995 NSX-R,GT2 LM
1999 Mobil 1 NSX, JGTC
1999 Raybryg NSX, JGTC
1999 Takata NSX, JGTC
1999 Castrol Mugen NSX, JGTC
1991 Prelude Si
1991 Prelude Si VTEC
1996 Prelude SiR
1998 Prelude SiR
1998 Prelude SiR S spec
1996 Prelude Type-S
1996 EK Civic,FERIO Si II
1995 EK Civic,SiR-II
1998 EK Civic,Type R
1993 EG Civic,Si-R II
1993 EG Civic,FERIO Si-R
1998 EK Civic,Ferio Si
1998 EK Civic,SiR
1992 CR-X Del-Sol,VXi
1995 Del-Sol, SiR
1996 Accord,Sedan SiR
1996 Accord,Touring Wagon SiR
1997 Accord,Wagon 2300VTL AWD
1998 Accord ,SiR-T
1998 Accord ,Wagon SiR
1998 Z, Turbo
1997 Life,T type
1998 Life,T type
Castrol Mugen Accord
Castrol Mugen NSX
Jaguar's now a part of the Ford family, but still produces some of the most
spectacular sports cars on the planet... just a little more reliable and better
crafted now ;).
XJ Sport 3.2
XJ220 (GT Racer)
Certain to dominate the Rally courses, Lancia's became popular in video games
with Sega Rally and Rally Cross.
Delta HF Integrale
Delta HF Integrale Evoluzione
Delta HF Integrale Rally Car
Delta HF Integrale collezione
1985 Delta S4
Stratos (can you say RALLY!?! :)
Y 1.2 16V
So far only two cars in GT2 (do they even make anything other than the Storm in
Real Life?). The Storm is, however, a very impressive car that will likely
compete on the high side of factory races in the game. The Storm V12 features a
7.0 Litre V-12 engine producing 592 horsepower, easily capable of speeds over
200 mph, this should be in the same league of competition as the Viper GTS-R,
Nissan R390, etc etc...
Built as some of the lightest, best handling cars on the planet. The older
Elan's and the classic Europa are lots of nostalgiac fun.
1964 Elan S2
1974 Elan S4 Sprint
1990 Elan S2
Esprit Sport 350 (YES!)
Esprit V8 SE
Esprit V8 GT
Including the new Legnum, a wide variety of cars throughout. The GTO uses
its american name, the 3000gt, in Gran Turismo 2 now.
1992 3000GT (GTO)
1995 3000GT (GTO),Twin Turbo
1992 3000GT (GTO),SR
1992 3000GT (GTO),Twin Turbo
1995 3000GT (GTO),MR
1995 3000GT (GTO),SR
1999 3000GT (GTO),Twin Turbo
1996 Galant,VR-G Touring
1998 Galant,Super VR4
1997 FTO,GP Version R
1995 Lancer,EvolutionIII GSR
1996 Lancer,EvolutionIV GSR
1998 Lancer,Evolution V GSR
1998 Lancer,Evolution V RS
1999 Lancer,Evolution VI GSR
1999 Lancer,Evolution VI RS
1998 Lancer,Evolution VI Rally Car
1996 Mirage,ASTI RX
1992 Mirage,CYBORG R
1997 Mirage,ASTI RZ
1998 Mirage,ASTI RX-R
1997 Legnum,VR-4 type-S
1998 Legnum,VR-4 type-S
1998 Legnum,Super VR4
1997 Pajaro Mini,VR-II
1998 Pajero Mini,Sport
1990 Minica,Dangan ZZ
Teivon Torampio FTO, JGTC 1999
Lancer, Evolution V
Again, wide variety of cars, and thankfully includes the 97 RX-7 models and the
kickass modified 99 RX-7! Unfortunately, the Miata when modded still isn't
quite powerful enough... but still a hoot to drive.
Eunos Cosmo,13B TYPE-S CCS
Eunos Cosmo,20B TYPE-E CCS
1989 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),Normal
1990 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),V-Special
1992 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),R-Special
1993 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),Normal
1993 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),V-Special
1993 MX-5 Miata (Eunos Roadster),R-Special
Lantis,Coupe 2000 Type-R
1991 FD Enfini RX-7,Type R
1996 FD Enfini RX-7,Type RZ
1996 FD Enfini RX-7,Type RB
1996 FD Enfini RX-7,Touring X
1990 FC Savanna RX-7 ,GT-X
1990 FC Savanna RX-7 ,Enfini III
1997 Demio,LX G Package
1998 Demio,GL-X Special
1997 RX-7,Type RS
1997 RX-7,Type RZ
1997 RX-7,Type RB
1998 RX-7,Type RS
1998 RX-7,Type R
1998 RX-7,Type RB
Roadster,1.6 S Package
1983 Savanna RX-7 GT-Turbo (SA22C),
1989 Familia,Interplay 4-door Sedan
1992 Familia (BG),GT-R
1992 Familia (BG),GT-X
1999 Familia,S-Wagon Sport 20
1990 FC Savanna RX-7 ,Cabriolet
1999 RE Amemiya Matsumoto-Kiyoshi RX-7, JGTC
Now includes the new Silvia models, as well as the classic Z cars (YES!)... I
can't wait to modify one of these... just too bad you won't be able to do the
best mod for a 280z... an EFI smallblock chevy ;).
1994 300ZX, 2by2 Version S
1994 300ZX, 2by2 Version S Twin Turbo
1994 300ZX, 2seater Version S
1994 300ZX, 2seater Version S Twin Turbo
1971 Fairlady 240Z, HS30(240ZG)
1998 300ZX, Version R 2by2
1998 300ZX, Version R 2by2 Twin Turbo
1998 300ZX, Version S 2seater
1998 300ZX, Version S 2seater Twin Turbo
1971 Skyline, GT-R(KPGC10)
1984 Skyline, RS-X Turbo Intercooler(DR30)
1987 Skyline, GTS-R(R31)
1997 Skyline, (4door), GT-R Autech Version 40th Anniversary(R33)
1989 Skyline, GT-R(R32)
1991 Skyline, GT-R(R32)
1993 Skyline, GT-R Vspec(R32)
1994 Skyline, GT-R Vspec II(R32)
1990 Skyline, GT-R Nismo(R32)
1991 Skyline, GTS-t Type M(R32)
1991 Skyline, GTS25 Type S(R32)
1991 Skyline, GTS4(R32)
1996 Skyline, GTS25t Type M(R33)
1995 Skyline, GT-R(R33)
1995 Skyline, GT-R Vspec(R33)
1997 Skyline, GT-R(R33)
1997 Skyline, GT-R Vspec(R33)
1998 Skyline, 25GT TURBO(R34)
1999 Skyline, GT-R(R34)
1999 Skyline, GT-R V-spec(R34)
Skyline (DR30),RS-X TURBO
1996 S14 Silvia,Q's
1996 S14 Silvia,K's
1995 S14 Silvia,Q's
1995 S14 Silvia,K's
1991 S13 Silvia,Q's 2000cc
1991 S13 Silvia,K's 2000cc
1988 S13 Silvia,Q's 1800cc
1988 S13 Silvia,K's 1800cc
S15 Silvia,Spec R
S15 Silvia,Spec R Aero
S15 Silvia,Spec S
S15 Silvia,Spec S Aero
S14 Silvia,K's Aero SE Sports Package
1998 Primera,Wagon 2.0G-V
1995 180SX,Type X
180SX ,Type X
180SX ,Type S
1997 StageA, RS FOUR V
1997 StageA,260 RS Autech Version
StageA,RS FOUR V
StageA,260 RS Autech Version
Pulsar Serier,VZ-R(N1 Version)
1997 R390 GT1, Race Car
1997 R390 GT1, Road Car
1998 R390 GT1, Race Car
1998 R390 GT1, Road Car
Nismo GT-R LM, (Normal R33)
Nismo GT-R LM, (Race R33)
Nismo GT-R LM, (Race R34)
1997 Zexel Skyline, JGTC
1997 Kure R33, JGTC
1997 300ZX-GTS, JGTC
1999 Nismo Penzzoil GT-R, JGTC
1999 Arta Zexel Skyline, JGTC
1999 Calsonic Skyline, JGTC
1999 Unisia Secs Skyline, JGTC
1999 Zanavi Arta Silvia, JGTC
1999 Daisin Silvia, JGTC
Prince, Skyline 280, Type MR
180SX Drag Racer
R33 Drag GT-R
Skyline (R32.5), GT-R
Skyline (R33), GT-R
Skyline (R34), GT-R
GT-R, Autech Version Tuned by Nismo
Stagea, 260RS Tuned by Nismo
Big GT class cars like the CLK GTR are available, as well as the kickass little
spitfires like the SLK 230.
The CLK GT-R was removed at the last moment due to licencing conflicts with
CLK 200 Sports
CLK 320 Sports
SLK 230 Kompressor
Not much to say here... has their own specific Rally Cars though.
106 1.6 Rallye
106 1.6 S16
306 Gti-6 2.0 (S16)
206 Rally Car
306 Rally Car
406 3.0 V6 Coupe
Lotsa kickass classic musclecars including the ever-popular 'Cuda, and the boxy
sleeper Plymouth Belvedere GTX... mmmmm...
1967 Belvedere GTX
1971 Road Runner ("Muscle Car" at the dealership)
Road Runner Superbird
Prominent Euro manufacturer makes some kickass cars (despite not being very
powerful), one even featured in the movie Ronin during one of its famous chase
Clio II 16V
Clio Sport V6 24V
Megane 2.0 16V Coupe
1998 Megane Rally Car
7.23 Mini / MG
Mini/MG is owned by the Rover corporation. We got lots tiny cars now :P.
Mini Cooper 1.3i
Mini Cooper 1275S MK1
Mini Rally Car
Wow, is all I can say... we're gonna get to race the likes of the CTR and CTR2,
that alone is amazing. Certainly one to watch for.
7.25 SHELBY AMERICAN
Not only is the Series I in the game, but I think we can be satisfied alone with
the 427 Cobras, some of the fastest American production sportscars ever
1967 Shelby Cobra 427 Roadster
1966 Mustang GT350
1968 Mustang GT500KR
Shelby Daytona Coupe 427
Much more variety than GT1, including Pleo, Rex and Impreza Rallier edition...
this manufacturer is sure to be highly competitive in the Rally courses, they've
won enough championships in real life :P.
1995 Alcyone,SVX Version L
1995 Alcyone,SVX S4
1996 Legacy,Touring Sedan RS
1996 Legacy,Touring Wagon GT-B
1993 Legacy,Touring SPORTS RS
1993 Legac,Touring Wagon GT
1996 Impreza,Sedan WRX
1996 Impreza,Sedan WRX-STi versionIII
1996 Impreza,Wagon WRX
1996 Impreza,Wagon WRX-STi versionIII
1995 Impreza,Sedan WRX-STi versionII
1995 Impreza,Wagon WRX-STi versionII
1994 Impreza,Sedan WRX
1994 Impreza,Wagon WRX
1997 Impreza,WRX Wagon
1997 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.IV TypeR
1997 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.IV Wagon
1997 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.IV
1998 Impreza,WRX Wagon
1998 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.V TypeR
1998 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.V Wagon
1998 Impreza,WRX Sti Ver.V
1997 Legacy,Touring GT-B Limited
1997 Forester, S-tb
1998 Impreza,22B Sti Version
1998 Legacy B4,RSK
1998 Legacy Wagon,GT-B
1990 Rex,Supercharger VX
1969 Subaru 360 Young SS
1999 Impreza Rally
1999 Cusco Subaru Impreza, JGTC
Gonna include their rally championship winning car, as well as the Alto Works...
interesting to see what all can be done to this rather limited manufacturer,
over here in North America there's really not that much variety on the street.
The Escudo, by the way, is so far considered the fastest car in the game...
and just happens to be a rally car as well ;).
1997 Alto Works,RS/Z
1997 Alto Works,Suzuki Sports Limited
1998 Alto Works,RS-Z
1990 Alto Works,RS/X
1990 Selvo Mode,SR-Four
1997 Wagon R,Turbo RT/S
1997 Wagon R,Column FT
1997 Wagon R,Aero RS
1998 Wagon R,RR
Cultus (Hill Climb car)
Escudo (Hill Climb car)
7.28 TOMMY KAIRA
Tommy Kaira is a high performance builder similar to RUF, in that they construct
their own cars. They've constructed high(er) performance versions of cars like
the Skyline GT-R, and have a large cult following in Japan with the ZZ Coupe.
The import tuners should be going nuts for this one.
M30 (Tuned R31 Skyline)
M30 (Tuned R32 Skyline)
Tommy kaira R, (Tuned R33 Skyline)
Tommy kaira R, (Tuned R34 Skyline)
M13 (Tuned March)
Expanded even further, now includes the new Altezza and Aristo models, and the
latest Celica. One of the fastest cars in the game is the Toyota GT-One, and
the road car version can be modded over 900 horsepower.
1996 Starlet,Glanza V
1996 Corolla Levin,BZG
1996 Sprinter Trueno,BZG
1992 Mark II,Tourer V
1992 Mark II,Tourer S
Chaser, Tourer V
Chaser, Tourer S
1995 Soarer, 2.5GT-T
Soarer, 2.5GT-T VVT-i
MA70 Supra,GT Turbo Limited
AE86 Corolla Levin,GT-Apex
AE86 Sprinter Trueno,GT-Apex
1991 Aristo 3.0V
1998 Starlet,Glanza V
1999 Celica, Mechanical Sports Version
1999 Celica, Elegant Sports Version
1986 MR2 (AW11),1600G-Limited Supercharged
1983 Celica XX,2800GT
1991 Celica (ST185),GT-R
1991 Celica (ST185),GT-FOUR
1991 Celica (ST185),GT-FOUR RC
1997 Corolla WRC
1998 Corolla WRC
1999 XYR (Detroit Motorshow Version)
1997 MR-S (Toyota Motorshow Version)
1998 GT-One, Road Car
1999 GT-One, Road Car
1999 GT-One, Race Car (TS020)
Castrol Supra, GT
1999 Castrol Tom's Supra, JGTC
1999 Denso Sard Supra, JGTC
1999 cdma one Cerumo Supra, JGTC
1999 Weds Sport Celica, JGTC
1999 Momo Corse-EApex MR2, JGTC
1999 BP Apex Kraft Torueno, JGTC
T020, (MR2 Based)
T111, (AE111 LEVIN Based)
Supra, (JZA80 Based)
TRD 2000GT, (MR2 Based)
Chaser, TRD Sports X30
More expanded throughout the Cerbera line, and now includes the Chimera...
Fortunately, we also have the new Speed 12 available, the incredibly fast
LM car previously seen in Test Drive 5 and 6.
Cerbera Tuscan Speed 6
Griffith Blackpool B340
One of GM's divisions over in Europe... I still wish Holden was in DAMMIT :/.
The Vectra is a 4 door sedan in either SiR trim or Gsi high performance trim,
with a 24 valve 2.5 V6. The Tigra is a pissy little version of a Geo Metro with
a 116 valve 1.6 litre 4 cylinder. The Astra is a 3 door hatchback style car
available in either the Sxi model featuring a 1.6 litre 16 valve 4 cylinder, or
Sri high performance option with the 2.0 litre 16 valve powerplant.
The Tigra Ice Rallyier is arguably the fastest rally car next to the Escudo.
Vectra GSi 2.5 V6
1995 Calibra Touring
1998 Tigra Ice Rally Car
Astra Rally Car
Astra SRi 2.0i 16v
Corsa Sport 1.6i 16v
Truly exotic car manufacturer, some of the fastest cars in the world... Seems
these are the only two models available. The M12 is an awesome Mid-engine
car, the handling is so tight it's almost silly.
Weigert W8 Twin Turbo
"France's answer to Ferrari". The Atlantique is a bit of a handful for a RWD
car, but has some great straightaway speed.
Atlantique 300 Bi-Turbo
1995 Atlantique 600 LM
VW has started gaining a serious performance aftermarket in the late 90s,
so it's a good thing it was included in GT2... unfortunately, we're not
getting the Jetta....
Golf IV, GTi
Golf IV, 2.3 V5
Golf IV, GTi 1.8T
Golf IV, V6
Beetle, 2.0 (New Model)
Polo, 1.4 16V
8.0 CAR TYPES
8.1 FRONT ENGINE, REAR WHEEL DRIVE
The classic drivetrain setup, it's not really that "efficient" or "economical"
due to drivetrain losses and interior space (main reason why most manufacturers
use FWD in street cars now), but it delivers the best acceleration and often top
speed, so the majority of performance cars still use this type. As stated, the
advantage to these cars is raw power, acceleration and speed. However the
downside to these cars is that they tend to get "loose" in the turns; the
back-end of the car wants to slide outward in the corner. This is due to a
combination of power delivered to the rear wheels as weight transfer wants to
pull the ass of the car outward. This is known as oversteering.
Quick reflexes and experience are required to drive these cars, with great skill
in "countersteering" (see section 10.2). However when it comes to accelerating
out of the corner, and blowing them away down the straightaway, these cars are
really fun to drive and the true cars of the masters. Beginner versions of Rear
Wheel Drive cars include the Madza Miata. Advanced cars in this class include
the TVR Cerbera, Corvette and the ever-popular Dodge Viper.
8.2 FRONT ENGINE, FRONT WHEEL DRIVE
These are cars that have the engine located at their front, under the hood
as you may normally see. However the thing to note is that the power is
delivered to the FRONT WHEELS, not the rear wheels. Most conventional cars
these days run FWD. On the one hand, Front Wheel Drive cars are much more
efficient because they eliminate most of the drive train (eg. drive shaft),
thus reducing frictional horsepower. They are also economical in the minds of
manufacturers because the localization of the drivetrain totally to the front
allows them to maximize cabin space.
On the other hand the engines in FWD cars tend to make a lot less power because
they are situated over the front wheels, which puts a strain on suspension and
drivetrain components, as well as the issue of weight.
The disadvantage of the front wheel drives cars is caused by the delivery of
power to the wheels that are steering, as well as the weight of the engine on
them. FWD cars tend to have excellent turn-in characteristics because the rear-
front weight transfer caused by braking increases traction. However from that
point on, a FWD car tends to understeer in the corners because of the inertia of
the weight on the front wheels, meaning the front end wants to drift to the
outside of the corner.
The worst knock against FWD cars however is in the acceleration department. No
matter how much horsepower they have, they are not as good as acceleration off
the line or out of corners as RWD/AWD cars. This is because weight transfers
from the front of the car to the back during acceleration (by Newton's Law, an
equal and opposite reaction to the force of acceleration). Thus, the front
wheels lose traction. While it's not true that EVERY RWD/AWD car will out-
accelerate EVERY FWD car, the fact remains that given similar conditions (like
curb weight and horsepower), the RWD/AWD car will win the battle.
A FWD car's rear-end tends to stick like glue around the corner, since there is
no power spinning the back wheels. A loose condition can only be induced in a
FWD car by a) locking the wheels which, while inducing a slide, can slow the car
too much and b) by seriously upsetting the chassis, usually by a very fast,
sudden jerk of the steering. Remember these techniques well, in case you find
your FWD car in a position that requires a quick snap into a line.
For this reason, proper apexing of the corner (see section 10.1) is required,
especially when driving this kind of car. Also note that, due to this huge
weight transfer onto the drive wheels, they will tend to wear quite fast and
lose traction--this becomes a serious problem when running longer races.
Beginner versions of Front Wheel Drive cars include the Honda Civic and
Mazda Demio A-Spec. Advanced cars in this class include the Mitsubishi
8.3 FRONT ENGINE, ALL WHEEL DRIVE
These are the best of both worlds above, really. All Wheel Drive vehicles are
special because power from the engine is delivered to all FOUR wheels.
Therefore, these cars have good acceleration, and more importantly they handle
GREAT in the corner. They can hold a turn quite well for the same reason the FWD
can, because weight transferred during braking applies traction to the front
wheels. At the same time, they can accelerate well when weight is transferred
to the rear wheels. Thus, the AWD cars tend to be the quickest THROUGH the
An AWD car with a lot of inertia heading into a corner will be more likely to
understeer, however similar techniques used with the FWD car can be used here to
break it into an oversteer, because traction control prevents you from snapping
the wheels loose with torque in most cases.
Beginner versions of All Wheel Drive cars include the Nissan Pulsar. Advanced
cars in this class include the Mitsubishi 3000GT Twin Turbo and the Suzuki Escudo.
8.4 MID ENGINE, REAR WHEEL DRIVE
These special cases are different from other RWD cars because the engine is
mounted midway through the car, instead of at the front. These cars tend to
handle the weight transfer into the corner much better, since they do not
have the tremendous weight of the engine sitting at the front. This creates a
weight distribution of 50/50 (althought some front engine/rwd cars can achieve
this), minimizing weight transfer during oversteering OR understeering, creating
a very neutral feeling.
8.5 REAR ENGINE, REAR WHEEL DRIVE
This is also a somewhat special case that exists with cars like the RUF
Porsches. The weight of the engine is situated almost entirely over the rear
wheels, creating a rear-biased weight distribution. On the plus side, this
makes for absolutely insane acceleration, because front-rear weight transfer
PLUS the engine places almost all the car's weight entirely over the drive
wheels. This also ensures a very neutral feeling to start into the corner, if
not a little bit of understeer due to lack of weight on the front wheels.
However, rear Engine cars experience what is sometimes referred to as "snap
oversteer". The car will go through the corner very neutral, but if pushed hard
enough the centrifugal force of cornering will eventually unload the weight of
the engine to the outside of the corner. The problem here is that you've gone
from a perfectly neutral cornering condition to a wild oversteer caused by most
of the car's weight swinging outward. While this does sound serious, a good
driver that has gotten used to this condition can not only correct early enough
to maintain good speed, but can also create some wicked 4-wheel drifts ;).
9.0 BASICS OF DRIVING
9.1 - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS
Acceleration with an Automatic Transmission is simple--step on the gas ;).
Note however that starting from a static position (eg. beginning of race)
still requires you to moderate your RPM... This of course also depends on
your drive-train type. Generally, if you're running a RWD car, keep the RPM
fairly low when the signal to go arrives--if your RPM is too high, you will
crawl from the starting line smoking your tires off. Typically you keep RPM
at this time around 3000 or so, less depending on your HP or gearing. If
you're geared really high towards acceleration, you may want to begin as low as
a 1000 RPM or so. You also have to keep turbo-lag in mind... turbo
charged cars require you to keep the revs up no matter what, or throttle
response will become nill for an agonizing moment.
When accelerating with Front Wheel Drive cars, you will rarely spin the
tires without serious horsepower. Keep the RPMs up in the high range either way.
Same goes for 4WD cars, though you usually get a little smoke out of these.
Remember: smoking the tires a little when the green flag drops is not a problem,
as long as you get up to speed quick enough. The RPM you start at is something
you need to get a feel for, since it varies with every car, but generally 4WD
and FWD allow you to basically pin it.
4.2 - MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS
Same notes about starting from a green flag, but some words on shifting
For those who don't know, a Manual Transmission will not change
gears unless you tell it to, meaning you can start in 1st gear and if you
don't shift, the car will redline and eventually stop gaining speed (and if
this were real life, you'd over-rev the engine and blow it up too ;).
In the long run, a stick is a much better choice as it provides quicker
acceleration (since you can shift a little later than an auto would, edging out
that last little bit of HP in that gear).
A standard gets you through the corner faster too; an automatic with often stay
in a certain gear through a corner, and end up accelerating too slowly out of
the corner. Downshifting for cornering allows you to accelerate much quicker out
of the corners and gives improved response during and coming out of slides (and
if you're not careful, can take ya for a loop too ;). Downshifting for a corner
also causes the engine to act as a brake as well, aiding you in the slowing
To properly shift your gears, wait for the tach (tachometer, the gauge on the
bottom right of your screen) to reach near redline, then shift up. If you wait
too long and bring the RPM right up through redline, you may stop gaining
horsepower and lose a bit of acceleration (and again, if this is real life,
you'd blow the engine).
Sometimes however this helps during cornering, to keep it in a lower gear to
prevent heading up into the wall. See section 10. 0 for more info on cornering.
So overall, the basic idea is to shift when the needle is entering the red ;).
Whenever I try to teach beginners how to take a corner, the most common
mistake they make is braking too late. Braking really should not be used TO
corner, rather to slow heading INTO the corner.
Oftentimes when you brake during your turn, you will either slide out too much,
or understeer and cause your car to drift up to the corner. Braking at high
speeds usually results in uncontrollable sliding. My father's a fellow stockcar
driver, and his philosophy on cornering is fairly simple: "If the wheels aren't
rotating, you have no control", meaning that if the wheels are not rotating
because you have applied the brakes, they will follow the intertia and slide in
the direction the car is going, frequently towards the outside of the corner.
And while threshold braking prevents total wheel lock up, the fact remains that
the slower the tire is allowed to move, the less traction it can gain.
Thus, brakes should be used ENTERING the corner--I cannot stress this enough.
Now, with the tweaking possible in Simulation Mode, allowing you to adjust the
strength of your front and back brakes, this can be compensated for somewhat,
but the basic idea still remains. This problem with braking is especially
evident when driving RWD cars, because of the torque they generate through the
corners combined with the weight transferring OFF of the drive wheels from
braking. Either you will get very loose and lose control, or you will understeer
and not be able to recover in time. Remember, BRAKE WHEN ENTERING THE CORNER,
then turn and downshift when needed.
10.0 DRIVING TECHNIQUES
First a couple of notes:
-OUTSIDE/INSIDE: referring to the "outside" or "inside" of a turn--pretty
straight-forward, the "outside" of, say, a left turn would be the right side of
the turn; the "inside" of that turn would be the left side.
-WEIGHT TRANSFER: when entering a corner in a car in real life, you will
notice that your weight will shift to the outside of that corner. This is
known as centrifugal force. Ever swing a bucket of water around, and the
water stays in the bottom of the bucket even when upside down? That's
centrifugal force. The same thing applies to cars entering corners.
Throughout the corner the weight of the car will shift to the outside. More
specifically during deceleration , the weight will shift from the inside rear of
the car to the outside front of the car, because there is still forward inertia
from entering the corner. This back to front weight transfer is applied further
if braking occurs.
Weight transfer is what causes both understeering and oversteering (see below).
In addition to the weight transfer caused by centrifugal force and intertia,
braking also comes into play.
10.1 "APEXING THE TURN" - HOW TO BEST NAVIGATE THE CORNER
Apexing a turn refers to taking the fastest and shortest possible line
around the corner. This is usually accomplished by starting on the outside of
the turn, diving to the inside, and coming out on the outside again. Thus:
| b___________ In this rather simple example of a
| | perfect 90 degree turn, the idea
| | is to get from point a to point c,
| | but THROUGH b, taking the shortest route
| | around the corner.
| | Obviously, apexing a corner is easier
|a | the bigger, wider and more gradual
| | the turn is. Running faster cars,
| | especially RWD, may require you to slide
| | the back end out when you reach point b
| | to prevent from when you reach point b
hitting the outside around point c (see
There are other ways to apex a turn, depending of course on the shape of the
turn. On a really sharp hairpin or "almost-hairpin" turn, a different path must
| b___ \ In this example, the idea is to get
| | \ \ from point a to point c, but this
| | \ \ time the nose of your car should
|a | \ \ already be pointing around to point b.
| | \ c \ This can be done by sliding the car
| | | | around with a RWD or even 4WD, or
| | | | slowing down and taking the turn sharp
| | | | enough with a FWD car.
Ideally you should end up on the
outside of the corner, point c.
It is especially important to start
this turn far to the outside near point
a. If you hug the inside and attempt
to turn into point b, often your car
will end up nose-first outside the
corner (in the grass, dirt or the
10.2 DRIFTING AND SLIDING
Sliding or "drifting" is done most often with RWD cars, but also occurs with
other drivetrain setups. Sliding the car refers to turning a corner so sharply
that you swing the back end of the car out, sliding the back tires around.
Sometimes this can be a bad thing but in most cases, it is the best way FOR a
car to take a corner, to prevent you from understeering and drifting to the
outside of the turn.
One must note however, that careful control must be used to ensure that you do
not "spin out" or "loop" the car, or you're in big trouble.
To slide effectively, it is best to approach the corner and brake
EARLY, being sure to point the nose of your car toward the inside part of the
corner--if it's a right hand turn, crank the car to the right so that the nose
points to the inside of the turn, while applying the brakes. Let off the brakes
early so that you do not spin out, or simply slow the car down too much. If all
goes well, the back of your car will slide around to the outside of the turn.
But you're not done yet; if you just hammer the gas and go, you
will either loop it, or smack your rear quarterpanel against an outside wall.
You now have to "countersteer" to bring the car back. I may refer to this
throughout the Compendium as "counter(ing)", "bringing it out/back" or
"correcting". This is when you counteract the affects of a slide by steering
into it. For example, if you were to take a hard right turn, the back end of the
car would slide out to the left--in order to "correct" this, turn the wheels to
the left; this will bring the back end around in the proper direction (hopefully
in time :). The amount you have to turn the wheel in correction depends on the
severity of the slide and the handling of your specific car. In the case of the
4WD car, the slide is often much easier to correct, as the front wheels will
also pull the car's front end outward since they also have power delivered to
them. Get used to this quick countersteer, so you do not end up "overcorrecting"
and sending the front end careening to the outside of the turn instead.
10.3 NAVIGATING THE S-TURN
Navigating an S-Turn requires good timing and expert setup. One must take the
first turn while taking into account how he will enter the second one. The basic
principle follows the idea of apexing a turn--take the shortest route possible,
so less turns are needed.
/ c /
| b___________/ In this example, the idea again is to
| / get from point a to point d, but to take
| | the shortest route possible, through b
| | and c. In this particular diagram, this
|a | is pretty simple, being almost a
| | straight line.
Now, in extreme cases, the corner at point c may be a much sharper left
turn, and thus you must be prepared to start an early slide (or slow and
turn early with FWD) AS you come out of your first turn. To do this, simply
jerk it quickly in the other direction, remembering to countersteer quickly.
In addition, it is often best to apply the brakes briefly around the outside of
the center turn (point c as above) to perform this slide, or to otherwise slow
you enough that you don't hit the outside of the middle turn (below point d as
10.4 - GENERAL TIPS CORNERING WITH RWD
When driving a RWD car around a corner, you must always be ready to
countersteer--when using a normal D-pad controller, this can often be done
by quickly tapping to countersteer. If you simply hold in the outside
direction you will overcorrect and be in even bigger trouble. If you find
yourself understeering too much, with your nose heading to the outside of
the turn, it is possible to throw yourself into a sharper slide, even from a
gradual one you may be performing. To do this simply crank it sharper and
longer than you did initially. Sometimes you may even have to briefly tap the
brakes to get the tires sliding. Worst case scenario, you will smack your ass-
end into the outside wall (if any) and be off. This is a good technique to use
on corners with outside walls if you find yourself losing a slide, but try not
to do it often on open turns unless you're SURE the sharper slide will keep you
on the pavement.
Hitting the grass can often be worse than spinning out. For cases like this,
"peppering" the brakes (tapping them briefly for a short period) and letting off
the gas will also work to slow the car down enough, and at the same time not
allowing it to understeer too much. The problem with this is that, with RWD
cars, this may cause you to slide too much... This will take practice, you need
a definite feel for it.
10.5 GENERAL TIPS CORNERING WITH AWD
Always remember that VERY quick recoveries from slides are commonplace with
AWD, so practice the proper amount of correction needed, to prevent you from
overcorrecting. A mistake that plagues beginners became popular first in Sega
Rally, which became known as the "pinball effect": players correct too quickly
and end up bringing the nose into the outside wall (if any), then try to correct
again and bounce of the inside wall, then back out, etc...
If you're in an open turn and this happens, chances are you'll just fishtail
wildly and loop it anyways. And always remember, you will most often outhandle
the other cars in the corner with AWD, so don't be afraid to attempt to pass
them on the outside, but of course always be weary of dirty tactics (see section
10.6 GENERAL TIPS CORNERING WITH FWD
Braking is, in fact, one of your best friends when driving a FWD. It is
pretty difficult to slide uncontrollably when braking with a FWD, unless you TRY
to do it ;). So, don't be afraid to dive to the inside under heavy braking to
pass an opponent, just remember to know the limits so you don't get into a heavy
Note that during extreme corners like hairpins, the chassis will be upset enough
to induce a fairly minor oversteer, so you still need to be ready to correct if
10.7 CORNERING WITH TRAFFIC
>From the door-to-door competitive world of stockcar racing, you can learn many
devious techniques for out-DRIVING your other opponents. So, you're a "measly"
Toyota Supra with oh, let's say 280 hp. Up ahead of you leading the race is the
powerful Dodge Viper GTS, with 460 hp. What to do? You just aren't fast enough!
So what... OUTDRIVE 'EM. One of the most common driving rules in the racing
business is that passing on the inside is easier. Of course there are
advantages to high and low lines, it depends on your driving style and the
circumstances. But for the inside line, you take a shorter route around the
corner than they do, and also tend to get a better run INTO the corner.
But what's even better is a classic short-track technique, commonly referred to
as "using" the other car. When you get up on the inside of another car in the
corner, DON'T let off the gas and DON'T brake. Let the other car act as your
guide, as your "wall", if you will. You can ride them all the way around the
corner without letting up and take right off when you come out of the turn. The
other car also prevents you from moving to the outside of the corner, and
usually keeps your ass-end around the corner too. This is not so easy against
experienced human players, as they can fight back--for example, they can let off
ever so briefly early in the corner and cause you to fly off ahead of them into
the wall, or outside of the turn either way--However this is a VERY easy way to
beat the CPU. You will often see the whole field of computer cars check up as
they reach the outside of the turn; don't follow their example :). Instead, just
plow right into the turn and USE the cars on the outside. Often this can
slingshot you from last place to first in one turn.
Now note that this "dirty" tactic is kind of unsportsmanlike and should only be
used if you're racing against someone that doesn't mind and will just do it back
to you in a similar case ;).
More strats will be added later.
Also known as "slip-streaming", this makes use of another car's air
resitance to increase your speed. When a car moves, it must push against
the air, causing a resistance. The shape of the car can determines its
amount of wind resistance, i.e. if it is aerodynamic, more of the air tends
to flow easily around the car, then become a direct force against it. The
less wind resistance you have on your car, the faster it will go (and
alternately, air flow can create downforce on parts of the car to gain more
traction, i.e. the rear wing/spoiler, and the front air dam).
So, what do you do if you get caught walking in a wind storm? You try and
find some place, perhaps a doorway, where the wind cannot hit you--you're
creating a barrier against the wind. Drafting is based on this principle;
obviously, if there is an object in front of your car blocking the air, it
will greatly decrease the wind resistance on your own car.
Thus, in order to draft, you tuck behind another car in front of you, taking the
wind resistance off of your car and allowing to accelerate to a greater speed.
Simply, once you notice yourself almost running into the back of the car in
front, slip off to the side, and your built-up speed will allow you to literally
slingshot around the car. This technique is ESPECIALLY important in the
Megaspeed Races to get into the lead. This is also an excellent way for slightly
slower cars to gain an edge--if you get a great exit off of a corner leading to
a longer straight and manage to get behind a slightly faster car for a moment,
you can draft it and slip by.
NOTE: drafting only works at fairly high speeds, and you of course have to
be fairly close behind the car in front for the draft to work. In other
words, drafting is important on places like High Speed Ring or the Test
Track, but is pretty much non-existant on lower-speed track like Autumn Ring
Mini or Motorsports Land.
10.9 DIFFERENCES IN HANDLING WITH THE DUAL SHOCK
The Dual Shock provides analog control. What this allows you to do is
moderate the amount of pressure you apply to the controls. This in effect
makes it act more like a real steering wheel--if you're coming up on a long,
easy curve, you can simply apply a small amount of pressure and take the turn
nice and smooth, as you would turning the steering wheel just a little bit in
real life. When using the normal D-Pad on an easy curve, you have to tap it
repeatedly in short increments. The analog allows you to not only stop this
tapping, and thus stop the quick jerks and sliding from the car, but also it may
help you shave a couple hundredths of a second of your lap times.
We DEFINETELY recommend the Dual Shock controller for Gran Turismo, also
because it has the "rumble-pack" addition to it, which creates small
vibrations in the controller when you skid the tires, hit other cars or
objects, or even accelerate with a hard-running engine. It's not as if you
can't PLAY the game without it, it's just a really nice addition to an
already great game.
11.0 CAR RANKINGS AND OPINIONS
Added a fair bit later when I get a good idea of it ;).
Sports: Replaces the stock air filter with a better flowing element as well as
low back-pressure muffler systems. Ideal for turbocharger upgrades and improves
top end torque on naturally aspirated engines.
Semi-Racing: Higher grade air element with urethane sponge filter, combined with
high flow muffler(s). This improves breathing at high RPM ranges, and is
especially good on larger turbo engines.
Racing: Replaces the air filter with a velocity-stack form and a straight-design
exhaust designed for racing cars. Reduces low RPM torque due to lack of
backpressure, but allows excellent breathing at high revs.
Sports: stock brake pads are replaced by carbon metallic types to increase
stopping power and reduce brake fade. A must on endurance racing cars.
Brake Balance Controller: modifies the metering and proportion valves in the
brake system to allow for changes in front and rear brake power. See section
13.0 for details.
Computer Chip: this chip changes the ECU's settings to increase power and
efficiency. This is done by modifying the air/fuel ratio, ignition timing and
Engine Balancing: engine is disassembled and re-assembled. Each part is
properly weighed and balanced to specific values, then rebuilt using exact
tolerances. The crankshaft is also modified and balanced. As a result of the
bottom end rebuild, the engine can now rev higher and thus the rev limiter is
Port and Polish: The cylinder head ports are grounded out to increase total
breathing area, as well as rounding off all sharp corners and polished to reduce
drag on the A/F charge.
Naturally Aspirated Tune-Up Stage 1: adjusts ignition and valve timing, installs
thinner head gaskets to boost compression. The exhaust manifold is also swapped
for a higher flowing version. These modifications increase total horsepower
without sacrificing bottom end torque.
Naturally Aspirated Tune-Up Stage 2: higher compression pistons are installed
and the heads are shaved slightly. The camshaft(s) is/are swapped for higher
lift/duration versions to improve A/F flow into the cylinders. The valve
springs are also replaced with stronger coils to aid in revving higher, and the
ECU is reset to take affect with these changes. Low end torque drops off
slightly but high RPM power improves greatly.
Naturally Aspirated Tune-Up Stage 3: Complete rebuild of the engine, including
pistons, connecting rods, camshaft(s), valve springs and engine block rebuild
for improved strength. This modification is designed to give ultimate
performance at high RPM.
Displacement Increase: increases the displacement of the engine, providing more
torque at all RPM ranges.
Sport Transmission: brings gear ratios closer together for faster shifting,
allowing for better downshifts and keeping the engine in its power band during
shifting. This in turn allows you to keep the car at maximum speed during
corners. Great for naturally aspirated engines.
Semi-Racing Transmission: tightens up the gear ratios even more, ideal for
highly-tuned cars with a power band that's not quite broad enough. This is not
as beneficial for engines with very wide power bands (e.g. most of the American
Racing Transmission: Replaces each gear, including the final drive gear. This
upgrade allows fine tuning of each ratio for maximum power output the drive
wheels at all times.
Heavy Duty Single Plate Clutch: shifting is more pronounced and instant,
Twin Plate Clutch: dual clutch plates are installed to reduce slippage and
improve acceleration. Excellent for high powered, high torque engines.
Triple Plate Clutch: three clutch plates are isntalled to boost torque
transmission and increase the shifting speed.
2-Way Limited Slip: the limited slip differential gives the drive wheels the
ability to rotate at different RPM during cornering, but deliver power both when
hitting the straightaway. This modification engages the limited slip feature
during both deceleration and acceleration. This will stabilize the vehicle
during hard braking and maintain traction during acceleration. See section 13.0
for more info.
1.5-Way Limited Slip: maintains full limited slip during acceleration and
reduces it during deceleration to ensure good traction and maintains good turn-
in ability during braking. Excellent system for all cars.
1-way Limited Slip: ideal for FWD cars, because it gives the limited slip
feature only during acceleration. While turn in ability is maximized during
braking, it reduces the stability of the car at the same time. Basically, the
car becomes a handful when slowing for a corner, but works well on exits.
Full LSD Customization: allows full independant adjustment of the LSD for
acceleration and Deceleration.
Sports Flywheel: lightweight chromemoly flywheel that allows the engine to rev
higher due to reduced rotating mass. This improves acceleration but revs may
drop below the powerband without a close ration gearbox in conjunction.
Semi-Racing Flywheel: even lighter than the Sports type, allowing for greater
revs when matched with a close ratio transmission.
Racing Flywheel: super lightweight that drops revs very quickly from top end.
This improves acceleration and deceleration as a whole, but again the revs may
drop below the powerband unless a close ratio tranny is used.
Carbon Driveshaft: lightweight driveshaft made of a carbon composite, reducing
rotating mass and thereby increasing acceleration, as well as saving some
overall vehicle weight.
Stage 1: installs gaskets, oil cooler, high flow oil pump and uses a compact
turbocharger to make high RPM horsepower, but still maintains low end torque.
This makes for very little turbo lag, so it's excellent for courses with a lot
of up and down revs in tight corners.
Stage 2: built for high RPM torque and decent bottom end power output. In
addition, a turbo computer, new high flow fuel pump, injectors and other
components are installed.
Stage 3: Built for pure horsepower that can maintain excellent acceleration when
combined with a close ratio transmission to keep the engine in the power band.
The cam is also replaced to help the turbo flow better into the engine, as well
as again replacing the gaskets, fuel pump, oil pump, etc etc...
Stage 4: Designed purely for high RPM output, it sacrifices nearly all low end
torque. Turbo lag is insane and thus keeping the engine in the power band is
Sports Intercooler: cools the intake air after it's pressurized by the turbo,
allowing for better air density.
Racing Intercooler: Larger capacity intercooler increases cooling ability but
will slightly reduce throttle response.
Sports Kit: good all around kit for any track, allows adjustment of front and
rear gas shocks to 10 damping levels. Camber angle is also adjustable and ride
height is lowered about 1" front and back.
Semi-Racing Kit: Gas shocks and springs can be adjusted for strength, as well as
very fine ride height adjustments. Camber can also be modified.
Full Customization: tuning of all suspension components. Adjustment of damping
levels on shocks and springs is allowed, as well as stiffer anti-roll bars (sway
bars). Both wheel camber and toe can now be adjusted, and shock bound and
rebound are now adjustable as well.
Sports Tires: better tires improve grip, allowing for better braking,
acceleration and handling. Purchasing these tires allows subsequent tire
servicing as long as you continue to run them.
Hard Racing Slicks: for racing on paved surfaces, ideal for longer races because
they wear much slower. Takes a few laps to warm them up.
Medium Racing Slicks: Made of a special compound that gives good balance between
traction and durability.
Soft Racing Slicks: provides good grip at all times, but not very good for long
races as durability is minimal.
Super Soft Racing Slicks: provides MAXIMUM grip at the cost of durability. Must
beware during prolonged races when traction goes to the wind.
Real Life Tires: more precise examples of real life tires, extremely difficult
to navigate but provide an ideal simulation.
Dirt Racing Tires: designed for traction sliding on gravel and dirt. Available
only on certain cars made for rally racing.
Weight Reductions: Removing non-essential components of a car, such as interior,
back seat, inner fenders, etc etc... to improve power/weight ratio and braking
Race Car Modifications: Upgrades the body to a more aerodynamic shell, including
rear wing and front air dam, as well as adding a racecar paint scheme.
12.9 FOR PROFESSIONALS
Yaw Control System: allows control of the distribution of torque between the
left and right drive wheels. Increasing this setting allows the car to turn
faster, but but can increase the likelihood of wheel spin.
Active Stability Controller: controls the braking power of all four wheels to
stabilize cornering and reduce traction loss. The higher the setting however,
the more difficult the car becomes to handle.
TCS Controller: adjusts the setting of the Traction Control System, preventing
wheelspin by reducing power delivery to the wheel that's losing traction. This
improves overall traction but may reduce straightline speed.
13.0 CAR SETUP
Here we'll take a look at setting up your car for optimal performance.
13.1 - SPRINGS
This setting adjusts the stiffness of the springs in the front and rear
suspension. Stiffer springs support weight transfer and body roll much
better and make the ride much more responsive. However, stiff springs can
cause the car to become unstable over rough surfaces. If you have really
stiff suspension when you go off a jump, for example, you may have trouble
keeping the car straight as you land.
13.2 - RIDE HEIGHT
Ride Height is the measurement from the bottom of the back and front bumpers to
the ground, given a flat service. The lower the car's centre of gravity sits,
the better it accepts weight transfer, thereby reducing body roll. This makes
for a much stiffer, smoother transfer through the corner and better stability
under braking. However if the ride height is too low, the car will bottom out
due to the suspension's stroke being shortened. This setting goes hand in hand
with Spring Ratio and dampening level.
13.3 - SHOCKS
The higher the bound value, the better the car accepts weight transfer.
Conversely, the higher the rebound value, the faster and harder the suspension
will unload the weight back to the opposite direction. In general you want a
moderate rebound strength to get the car set straight when exiting the corner,
while not unsettling the chassis in the other direction. RWD cars in particular
should have stiff rebound values on the front wheels to transfer weight back to
the rear wheels on acceleration. Bound values for the front wheels on pretty
much all RWD/AWD cars should be pretty heavy to accept weight transfer.
13.4 - CAMBER
Camber is the term used to describe the wheel's angle in relation to the
ground, given a flat surface. Zero (degrees) camber means the wheel is
totally perpendicular to the ground surface. If the wheel is cambered
negatively, it is tilted inwards, so that the top of the wheel is further
into the car. When the weight transfers to the outside of the car in the
corner, a wheel with Zero camber will actually lean outward (positive camber) so
that it rides up onto the sidewall of the tire. This is known as "plowing" or
"rolling". In real life racing, the worst problem with plowing is that it wears
the outside and sidewall of the tire, in extreme cases even tearing chunks out
of the rubber. In addition, you will lose a fair bit of handling in the corner
because the tire will not be using a full contact patch. Most often, the outside
front tire will push, causing an understeering condition due to its loss of
However, if the wheel is cambered negatively a few degrees, it will return to
Zero camber during weight transfer, because all of the weight is leaning it
outward. Cambering allows the tire to return to a perpendicular position and
gain its maximum traction.
NOTE: loss of traction due to tire plowing also creates a more serious
problem; braking power is significantly reduced, since the contact patch of
the rubber that is braking is lessened. This occurs if the tire plows OR if
the tire has too MUCH camber.
-Outside Right Wheel-
| \ /
| \ /
| \ /
| \ /
| \ /
------------- ------------- -------------
Zero Camber Negative Camber Positive Camber
General Tip: when a wheel is cambered, it will sit on that angle down the
straightaway. Therefore, a RWD car should camber the Front wheels a fair bit to
help in the corners, but you should keep the rear wheel camber minimal so that
you do not lose traction down the straights. Alternately, you don't want much
camber on the front wheels of a FWD car, but you will need a bit since
understeer is a big problem with FWD. Treat 4WD as you would RWD, so that you
can keep speed down the straight but not sacrifice handling.
13.5 - STABILIZERS
Stabilizers, often referred to as anti-roll bars or sway bars, do just as the
name suggests--compensate for body/chassis roll. The stiffer the sway bar is,
the stiffer the relationship between both sides of the suspension is.
Conversely, it also increases the amount of energy transferred from one wheel to
its opposite. In other words, while it will tighten the car up and reduce
chassis roll, it may upset the chassis and generally make it all squirrely
(one wheel goes over a bump, the other follows).
Stiffer rear sway bars in a RWD car will also improve acceleration because it
balances the drivetrain torque (the rear end torques in a clockwise fashion
looking from the rear, reducing traction on the LR wheel) for maximum traction.
13.6 - BRAKE BALANCE
In my opinion, probably the most important all-around settings for handling.
The Sports Brakes and Balance Controller should be your first buys,
ESPECIALLY if you're modding a RWD car. The Balance Controller makes use of
a proportioning valve to adjust the amount of braking force to rear and front
brakes respectively. As most people know, if the back wheels lock up, you slide.
The Balance Controller allows you to reduce the amount of back brakes while
increasing the amount of front brakes. More front brakes will slow you and allow
you to start into your turn much more sharply, while not sliding out by locking
up the back wheels. Alternately, too much front brake will cause the car to
General Tip: usually I keep the front brakes a little bit higher than the
back, so that sliding is a fair bit more controllable. You want SOME back
brakes, so that you have sufficient stopping power. Usually, it's a good
idea to start with both front and back brakes at the same value, then adjust
depending on the handling. Also remember that brake balance can depend a lot on
driving style. Sliding can of course be controlled, and some may prefer to
ALWAYS power slide through a corner--in a case like this, you want more back
brakes. However, too much back brakes will cause the rear wheels to slide and
lose traction. Note that you should keep this setting similar even for FWD cars,
because you will not lose handling provided you brake properly.
13.7 - GEAR RATIOS
These settings affect the shifting range of each gear. Generally, there's
not really that much modification needed in between gears... the Final Gear
Ratio is what's truly important. In relation to Turbo Boost, you can adjust
acceleration. A high final gear ratio results in better acceleration, but
sacrifices top speed. Thus, for races like the High-Speed Challenge, you may
want to lower this number significantly.
Adjusting specific gear range is really only needed when working with Turbo
Chargers. You can adjust seperate gears depending on where you find a speed
loss with Turbo. Typically you can often increase the 1st gear ratio to give a
closer shift to 2nd gear, allowing for slightly better acceleration from start.
13.8 - DOWNFORCE
Also a very important handling characteristic. Downforce is the term used to
describe the way the air runs over the car. Downforce on certain parts of the
car will push it downward to improve handling. Increasing downforce over the
drive wheels improves traction and stability in the corners. Thus, increased
traction causes better response from that part of the car. Downforce on the
front air dam will increase traction to the front wheels, improving response and
decreasing understeer. Downforce on the rear decreases oversteer.
General Tip: to make handling overall better, use a lot of downforce on both
ends of car, especially RWD to REALLY make it hold a turn. However, it's not
much of a problem to lower downforce on the wing of a FWD car, since it only
really needs traction on the front wheels. If you find yourself losing out a bit
on the straights and you cannot, for some reason, make it up in the corners,
then reduce downforce altogether to get a little more speed.
Toe is the angle of the wheels in relation to their opposite. 0.00" toe means
both wheels are parallel with each other and in line with the car.
Toe out pulls the front of the wheels outward from each other, toe in does the opposite.
Toe out on the front wheels allows the outside wheel to take a slightly greater
path around the corner while the inside wheel maintains its original radius.
This reduces the tendancy of the car to oversteer.
Rear toe out performs a similiar feature, allowing the outside rear wheel to
take a more gradual radius around the corner and maintain traction.
As you increase toe out however, you increase the chance that the wheels wil
walk in either direction down the straightaway, and tire wear is also increased.
If the car has an oversteer problem, give it some minor front toe-out, otherwise I
recommend leaving it alone.
If you find you're having trouble keeping a car straight down the straightaway
(uneven surface, lots of hp with no traction, etc), then toe the front wheels in
slightly. Similar to keeping your toes closer together during skiing, it creates
a wedge effect to keep the wheels in line.
13.10 LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL
Overall one of the most effective modifications for handling. The "Initial"
setting refers to your acceleration from a standing-stop... to reduce
wheelspin you want this setting fairly low.
The deceleration setting modifies the amount of power delivered to both
wheels when throttling down for a corner. A high setting will stabilize the
speed of each drive wheel, but will thus make it more difficult to turn
(because there's little difference between the rotation of the inside and
outside wheels). A low setting will make it much easier to turn-in (because
the the outside wheel is allowed to free-wheel at its own speed), but can
reduce the stability of the car under heavy braking.
The acceleration setting modifies the amount of power that both wheels get
when accelerating out of the corner. A high setting allows both drive wheels
to receive maximum horsepower and thus best acceleration out of the corner.
However due to the fact that both wheels are spinning at similar speeds, the
car can easily become unsettled and difficult to turn. A lower setting will
slightly reduce corner exit speed, but will stabilize both drive wheels and
make it easier to complete the turn.
Basically you want to find a happy medium with acceleration and deceleration.
A RWD car will benefit from a low acceleration value, because RWD already gets
excellent traction due to weight transfer... too high a setting will make it
real loose under throttle. A FWD car is going to benefit from a low deceleration
value, because the less understeer the better. AWD... well again, a happy medium.
13.11 YAW CONTROL
Basically, this controls the ratio of torque between each of the four
wheels. This allows the car to balance the power delivered to the pavement
more evenly... a moderate setting is a good idea, because too high a
setting with this causes too much power to be delivered to each wheel
during acceleration, increasing the amount of wheelspin. This is available
only on a limited few AWD cars... in fact, I believe only the Mitsubishi VR4
models. Thanks to Frederick Pellissier START> button over a given car moves that car to
the top of the list.
STATUS SCREEN: The game can only be 98.68% (?) complete, as opposed to 100%. It is
speculated that the late removal of drag racing mode is accountable for this.
This symbols in the bottom right hand corner tell you about your licences.
Apparently the Green/Yellow symbol that looks sort of like a book is called
the "Kid's Prize", which you get if you come close to getting Bronze in a
test, but just miss it.
The following is a list of price cars gained after winning each race/series in
Sim Mode. Special Thanks to ZZ of the www.granturismo.com forum message board,
who translated this from a Japanese GT site.
LICENCE ALL GOLD
B Licence- Spoon Honda S2000
A Licence- Dodge Concept Car (Copperhead)
I-C Licence- Mitsubishi GTO LM [R]
I-B Licence- Honda CR-X LM [R]
I-A Licence- Mitsubishi FTO LM [R]
S Licence- 1999 Toyota TS020 (GT-One)
Race 1- Castrol Toyota Supra LM [R]
Race 2- Nissan R33 Skyline Xexel [R]
Race 3- Nissan R33 Skyline Kure [R]
Race 1- Nissan 300ZX GT-S [R]
Race 2- Mazda RX-7 LM [R]
Race 3- HKS Drag Nissan 180SX [R]
World League (Random prize car):
-Calsonic R33 Nissan Skyline [R]
-Castrol-Mugen Acura NSX [R]
-Nissan R390 GT-1 [R]
-1998 Toyota GT-One [R]
Endurance Races (Random prize car):
-Grand Valley- Subaru Impreza Rally [R]
1997 Nissan R390 GT-1 [R]
-Apricot Hill- Lancia Stratos
Dodge Viper GTS-R [R]
-Seattle Street Course (Long)- Ford GT90 Concept Car [R]
Ford Escort Rally [R]
-Laguna Seca- Toyota Celica Rally [R]
Mitsubishi GTO LM [R]
-Rome City Street Course- Toyota Altezza LM [R]
1997 Toyota Corolla WRC [R]
-Trial Mountain- Denso-Sard Toyota Supra
-Special Stage R5- TVR Cerbera LM [R]
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI Rally [R]
Race 1- Mugen Honda Accord SiR-T
Race 2- TOMs T111
Race 3- Mugen Honda Prelude Type-S
Race 1- Nissan Sil Eighty
Race 2- Nissan Nismo 270R
Race 3- Mazda RX-7 GT-C
Race 1- Toyota TRD2000GT
Race 2- TOMs T020
Race 3- Ford GT40 [R]
Race 1- Subaru Legacy Wagon GT-B
Race 2- Nissan Nismo 400R Preceiding
Race 3- Mines Nissan R32.5 Skyline
Lightweight K-car Cup:
Race 1- Mugen Honda Beat
Race 2- Mazda Demio A-Spec
Race 3- Mugen Honda CR-X Pro.2
Global Compact Car Cup:
Race 1- Toyota Vitz F
Race 2- Renault Clio 16V
Race 3- Volkswagon Lupo 1.4
Luxury Sedan Cup:
Race 1- Honda Accord Type-R
Race 2- TRD Sports Toyota Chaser
Race 3- Autech Nissan Skyline GT-R
Race 1- Plymouth PT Spyder
Race 2- Shelby Cobra Roadster
Race 3- Chrysler Phaeton Concept Car
World Open-Car Cup:
Race 1- Mazda Roadster A-Spec (NB8C)
Race 2- 1997 Toyota MR-S Show Car
Race 3- Dodge Concept Car LM [R]
Historical Car Cup:
Race 1- Mugen Honda CR-X Pro.3
Race 2- Lotus Europa
Race 3- 1999 Toyota XYR Show Car
GT Wagon Challenge:
Race 1- Subaru Impreza STi Ver.5
Race 2- Mugen Honda Accord Wagon
Race 3- Nissan Stagea 260RS
80s Sports Car Cup:
Race 1- Mugen Honda Civic Ferio
Race 2- Mugen Honda CR-X Pro.3
Race 3- Mugen Honda Civic Type-R
Race 4- Mugen Acura Integra Type-R
Race 5- Nissan R30 Skyline Silhouete Formula [R]
Gran Touring Car Trophy:
Race 1- Nissan Silvia Daisen
Race 2- Castrol-Mugen Acura NSX
Race 3- Nissan Skyline Unisia Jecs
Pure Sports Car Cup:
Race 1- TOMs Angel T01
Race 2- Tommy Kaira ZZ III
Race 3- Tuscan TVR Cerbera Speed 6
Tuned NA No.1 Cup: (random prize car)
-Mazda Roadster C-Spec (NA8C)
-Spoon Honda Civic
-Spoon Acura Integra
Tuned Turbo No.1 Cup: (random prize car)
-Nissan Nismo 400R
-Mines Nissan R33 Skyline
-HKS Drag Nissan R33 Skyline
Gran Turismo All-Stars:
Race 1- Mines Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V
Race 2- Mines Nissan R34 Skyline
Race 3- TVR Speed 12
Race 4- Tommy Kaira ZZ II [R]
Race 5- nissan R390 GT-1 Roadcar
Super Touring Trophy:
Race 1- TRD Toyota 3000GT
Race 2- TOMs Toyota Supra
Race 3- 30th Anniv. Chevrolet Camaro Z28
GT 300 Championship: (random prize car)
-1999 Wed's Celica GT
-BP Apex Kraft Trueno
-Momo Corse Apex MR2
-Skyline Silhouette Formula (R30)
GT 500 Championship: (random prize car)
-1999 Cerumo Supra GT
-Arta Zexel GT Skyline
-Takata NSX GT (J) '99
-Taisan STP Viper GT
-cdma One Supra GT
Below is a currently incomplete list of Prize Cars with values, statistics
and races won in. If there are any additions to this list please contact
Kavadril or on ICQ at 36827545.
Special Thanks goes to him for this list.
Manufacturer merely refers to the place you would take the car to be tuned,
e.g. Acura becomes Honda, Mercury becomes Ford, etc. The Power-to-Weight Ratio
of the cars is taken BEFORE any modifications are made. Most of the cars can
drastically improve on this, but I have not taken the time to fully modify all
these cars and take the final reading, so I won't put it on this list. If no
race number is given (as in the Tuned NA Car races), then the cars listed for
that set of races (or single race) are selected at random as prize cars.
Car Name Manufacturer HP Weight Value Type Aspiration HP/Weight Race
Spoon Sports S2000 Honda ??? ?,??? 12,000 FR Normal .???? B License Test
[R]Castrol Supra GT Toyota 685 2,535 250,000 FR Turbo .2702 GT Europe 1
[R]Zexel Skyline GT Nissan 670 2,601 250,000 4WD Turbo .2576 GT Europe 2
[R]Kure R33 GT Nissan 670 2,601 250,000 4WD Turbo .2576 GT Europe 3
[R]Nissan 300ZX GT Nissan 301 2,601 250,000 FR Turbo .2311 GT Pacific 1
[R]Mazda RX-7 LM Edition Mazda 551 2,116 250,000 FR Turbo .2604 GT Pacific 2
[R]HKS Drag 180SX Nissan 1,011 2,160 250,000 FR Turbo .4681 GT Pacific 3
[R]Mugen NSX GT '99 Honda 608 2,601 250,000 MR Normal .2338 GT World
Mugen Accord SIR-T Honda 190 2,865 7,000 FF Normal .0663 FF Car 1
Tom's T111 Toyota 172 2,248 5,500 FF Normal .0765 FF Car 2
Mugen Prelude Type-S Honda 211 2,888 7,500 FF Normal .0731 FF Car 3
Sileighty Nissan 201 2,579 2,000 FR Turbo .0779 FR Car 1
Nismo 270R Nissan 264 2,733 10,000 FR Turbo .0966 FR Car 2
Mazdaspeed RX-7 GT-C Mazda 293 2,821 11,250 FR Turbo .1039 FR Car 3
TRD 2000GT Toyota 266 2,843 7,500 MR Turbo .0936 MR Car 1
Tom's T020 Toyota 230 2,689 7,500 MR Normal .0855 MR Car 2
[R]GT40 Race Car Ford 492 2,200 250,000 MR Normal .2236 MR Car 3
Legacy Wagon GT-B Subaru 274 3,152 5,150 4WD Turbo .0869 4WD Car 1
Nismo 400R Preceiding Nissan 393 3,417 20,000 4WD Turbo .1150 4WD Car 2
Mine's R32.5 Skyline GT-R Nissan 618 3,306 17,500 4WD Turbo .1869 4WD Car 3
Mazda Demio A Spec. Mazda 99 1,807 3,750 FF Normal .0548 Lightweight 1
Mugen CR-X II Honda 155 2,204 2,500 FF Normal .0703 Lightweight 2
Mugen Beat Honda 61 1,675 2,000 MR Normal .0364 Lightweight 3
Vitz F '99 Toyota 67 1,807 2,320 FF Normal .0371 Compact Car 1
Clio 16V Renault 106 2,414 5,595 FF Normal .0439 Compact Car 2
Lupo 1.4 Volkswagen 73 1,904 4,172 FF Turbo .0383 Compact Car 3
Accord Type-R Honda 207 2,962 10,000 FF Normal .0699 Luxury Car 1
TRD Chaser X30 Toyota 312 3,240 10,000 FR Turbo .0963 Luxury Car 2
Nismo GT-R 4-Door Nissan 293 3,439 12,500 4WD Turbo .0852 Luxury Car 3
PT Spyder Plymouth 221 2,700 25,000 MR Normal .0819 Muscle Car 1
Cobra 427 '67 Shelby 423 2,345 75,000 FR Normal .1804 Muscle Car 2
Phaeton Dodge 502 3,527 25,000 FR Normal .1423 Muscle Car 3
MX-5 Miata A Spec. Mazda 141 2,292 7,000 FR Normal .0615 Convertible 1
MR-S Show Version Toyota 135 2,138 12,500 MR Normal .0631 Convertible 2
[R]Concept Car LM Edition Dodge 526 1,984 125,000 MR Normal .2651 Convertible 3
Mugen CR-X III Honda 164 2,513 3,000 FF Normal .0653 Historic Car 1
Europa Lotus 125 1,609 20,000 MR Normal .0777 Historic Car 2
XYR '99 (Celica) Toyota 182 2,513 12,500 FF Normal .0724 Historic Car 3
Impreza STi Ver. V Subaru 283 2,888 6,300 4WD Turbo .0980 Station Wagon 1
Mugen Accord Wagon Honda 197 3,152 6,250 FF Normal .0625 Station Wagon 2
Stagea 260RS by Nismo Nissan 343 3,791 12,000 4WD Turbo .0905 Station Wagon 3
Mugen Civic Honda 164 2,491 5,750 FF Normal .0658 80's Sports 1
[R]Mugen NSX GT Honda 608 2,601 250,000 MR Normal .2338 Grand Touring 2
[R]Unisa GT-R GT Nissan 702 2,601 250,000 4WD Turbo .2699 Grand Touring 3
Tom's Angel T01 Toyota 155 1,543 12,500 MR Normal .1005 Pure Sports 1
Tuscan Speed 6 TVR 361 2,336 125,000 FR Normal .1545 Pure Sports 3
Spoon Civic Type-R Honda 212 1,807 7,500 FF Normal .1173 Tuned NA Car
Spoon Integra Type-R Honda 259 1,984 9,500 FF Normal .1305 Tuned NA Car
MX-5 Miata B Spec. Mazda 165 2,160 3,000 FR Normal .0764 Tuned NA Car
Nismo 400R Nissan 393 3,417 30,000 4WD Turbo .1150 Tuned Turbo Car
Mine's R33 Skyline GT-R Nissan 618 3,395 18,750 4WD Turbo .1820 Tuned Turbo Car
HKS R33 Drag GT-R Nissan 1,011 2,821 250,000 4WD Turbo .3584 Tuned Turbo Car
Mine's Lancer Evo. V Mitsubishi 413 2,380 13,750 4WD Turbo .1735 GT All-Stars 1
Mine's R34 Skyline GT-R Nissan 618 3,395 20,000 4WD Turbo .1820 GT All-Stars 2
Speed 12 TVR 807 2,094 500,000 FR Normal .3854 GT All-Stars 3
[R]ZZ-II Tommy Kaira 588 2,248 250,000 MR Turbo .2616 GT All-Stars 4
R390 GT-1 Road Car '97 Nissan 351 2,204 250,000 MR Turbo .1593 GT All-Stars 5
Tom's Supra Toyota 309 3,328 13,750 FR Turbo .0928 Super Touring
Camaro Z28 30th Anniv Ed Chevrolet 285 3,441 7,000 FR Normal .0828 Super Touring
TRD 3000GT Toyota 318 3,328 14,250 FR Turbo .0956 Super Touring
[R]Momo MR2 GT Toyota 374 2,843 125,000 MR Turbo .1316 GT 300
[R]Arta GT-R GT Nissan 702 2,201 250,000 4WD Turbo .3189 GT 500
15.0 ARCADE MODE TIPS AND CARS
Well, I appear to be 100% done arcade mode... basically, get all your
licences in Sim Mode, and the Arcade disc will recognize them and open up most
of the tracks. Then, you beat each track on the Difficult setting (class makes
no difference) and it will open up its reverse track, and unlock either a Rally
Car or an S-Class Car. As you progress, you'll open up more tracks. Still no
Drag Racing sightings.
Note: Motorports Park appears to be a small go kart track, and can only be
played in Time Trial mode.
Here's an extensive car list for Arcade Mode, including the tracks required to
win on to gain the cars (if applicable). Special Thanks to Paul Hopkins
for this great list.
Aston Martin V8 Vantage - 5. Seattle Short Course
Dodge Viper GTS - 8. Seattle Circuit
Jaguar XKR Coupe - 12. Apricot Hill Speedway
Lister Storm - 20. Deep Forest Raceway
Renault Clio Sport V6 24v - 3. High Speed Ring
RUF CTR 2 - 9. Rome Circuit
Shelby Corba Daytona Coupe - 19. Test Course
TVR Tuscan Speed Six - 18. Autumn Ring
Vector M12 - 14. Clubman Stage Route 5
Venturi Atlantique 400 GT - 6. Rome Short Course
Chevrolet Corvette Coupe
Ford Mustang SVT Cobra
Lotus Elise Sport 190
Mazda RX-7 Type RS
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI GSR
Nissan Skyline GT-R V-Spec
Subaru Legacy B4 RSK
Tommy Kaira ZZ-S Coupe
Alfa Romeo 156 2.5 V6 24v
BMW 328i Saloon
Fiat Coupť 2.0 20v Turbo
Lancia Delta HF integrale
Mercedes-Benz CLK 320 Sports
Plymouth Pt Spyder
Toyota Altezza RS200
CitroŽn Xsara 1.8i 16v Exclusive
Daihatsu Move Aerodown Custom
Ford Mercury Cougar
Opel Tigra 1.6i
Peugeot 206 GTi
Mini Cooper 1.3i
Suzuki AltoWorks RS/Z
Volkswagen Golf GTi
Lancia Delta HF integrale
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V
Nissan Pulsar GTi-R
Opel Tigra Ice Race Car
Subaru Impreza 99
Toyota Celica GT-Four 261hp
Diahatsu StÚria X4 - 2. Midfield Raceway
Ford Escort - 16. Grand Valley Speedway
Lancia Strato's - 15. Grand Valley East Section
Mini Cooper 127 MK 1 - 7. Red Rock Valley Speedway
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution III - 13. Trial Mountail Circuit
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV - 4. Super Speedway
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VI - 21. Rome-Night
Peugeot 306 - 1. Tahiti Road
Toyota Celica GT-Four 251hp - 11. Laguna Seca Raceway
Toyota Celica GT-Four 295hp - 17. Special Stage Route 5
Volkwagen Golf - 10. Grindelwald
16.0 AROUND THE WEB--ADDITIONS FROM THE READERS
Here's the scoop. I'm gonna start adding strategies for each course as well as updating the
car setup section frequently. However I want to expand this to include specific car strategies,
so here's what I'd like: send me in a "complete" review of a car that you enjoy driving or
have substantial knowledge of. Include its specs (don't get too detailed, hp/weight, basic
suspension etc will be enough), its strengths and weaknesses, what modifications do it best,
what kind of driving style it takes to run it, your best suspension/gearing setups for that
car, and even some history of the real life version. Note that I'll be doing most of the
musclecars myself to give you some examples, so the extra musclecar reviews may not
be posted, at least not yet. LET'S HERE EM!
Here's what we got so far:
I've gotten E-mail from people asking me how to increase the max speed
even further after getting fully tuning-up their car, and after putting
the gear settings to their lowest because some cars seem to only be able
to go up to 220 MPH or so. What I'm about to tell you will make the
car's max speed exceed the amount you think is the max possible.
Well, go to the Machine Test and
choose 'Max Speed' to test your car's max speed. Go to the Settings, go
to the Gears Settings, and put all of the gears to their lowest and
start the test. See your car's max speed and if you want to increase it
even further, quit and go back to the Settings. Push [Start] while
highlighting one of the gears to return it to its default settings, and
change the gears to their lowest settings again. Take the test again and
the max speed should have either increased or decreased.
Now quit and go back to the Settings once again. You see the option
all the way at the bottom of the menu with the gears? Well, select it
and move it to the right a few, then push X or O to accept. Then push
[Start] and it'll return to its default number. Go to the gears and make
them the lowest possible. Take the test again and the max speed should
Note: Don't do this for all cars since the higher your max speed, the
less acceleration you have. You can also only do this for the
final gear afterwards
This is to answer one of the most frequently asked questions about
turbo-aspirating cars in Gran Turismo. The question usually goes something
like this: "Hey, I just bought a level 4 turbo kit for my Nissan R32
Skyline, bringing it to 600+ HP. But now the &@*%ing thing won't
accelerate like it used to. What gives?"
Here's an explanation: Each turbo kit progressively enlarges the turbines
in the turbocharger. Enlarging these parts is a mixed blessing: A larger
turbine means more power can be generated, increasing acceleration (in
higher RPMs) and top speed. There is a downside to this: the larger the
turbine gets, the more energy it takes to get it spinning from a
Thus, equipping a level 3 or 4 turbo kit in GT 2 will dramatically
increase overall power in high RPMs, but they make the car accelerate
unacceptably slow in low RPMs. This is called "turbo lag."
If you have a car in GT 2 which is experiencing turbo lag problems, and
you need to start it up from stationery; then the best way to start up is
to shift to neutral, accelerate to near-redline levels, then shift to
first gear. If you're using auto-shift, then try setting the parking break
(that's the triangle button) until the engine has revved up. This does
not completely work around the problem, but it is useful if you ever have
to start up again after crashing in the middle of a race.
Note that some turbo-aspiration cars, such as the Mitsubishi 3000GT Twin
Turbo, do not experience the same magnitude of turbo lag-related problems
as other turbo-aspiration cars. These cars actually have two turbochargers
rather than one, which suppresses turbo lag while delivering the same
power benefits. This is because the two smaller turbines take less power
to start up than a large one, and working parallel, deliver the same
amount of power.
LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL:
I've been noticing that an adjustment of 5-15, up to 50 or so on the fully custom
diff-accelerator, allows for virtually no lag between gears, and furthermore, allows
almost rocket-like acceleration all of the time... at the expense of handling. What's
nice is that the decel value set at 15 or 16 allows quick wind-down, depending the turn,
car...each car responds differently and depending on the track. But the push can be
significant with the right track, conditions....
LSD seems to work better on a variety of cars vs. ASC, or whatever the
The initial setting is the starting line/take off setting. You
want traction so set it low as you need the gear to slip in order to get
torque. Any super close ratio/small car, less accel diff, big cars, you can
get away with more... kinda. Spinning occurs, then you need to look at the
ASC/TSC...or lowering the gear ratio.
In fact, everytime I make the gearing taller, I add more diff. It does make a real
difference, getting rid of the loss in accel that raising it to a taller ratio would.
On a closer ratio, less. On the high-powered turbo cars, 35-40 works well, but it
really depends on the track's traction and corners.
ASC AND TCS TUNING:
I've been using the ASC and TSC, and idfferential settings for GT2, on a
daily basis now, and I'm recommending the ASC for all cars, except certain
AWD cars that don't really need it; it may also help depending on your
driving style. If you find your car, such as the SLK 230, needs a little
more traction to avoid spinning out, the ASC is a wonderful stabilizer
under all conditions. Personally I notice no appreciable acceleration
changes with the highest 101 setting. If you feel that some cars such as
powerful FR carsa re not responding as best they can, then add TCS to your
settings. Try using a higher (i.e. 10-25) setting, and spin outs are
minimized while retaining most of the acceleration response. If you notice
that at a higher setting your acceleration in the powerband is declining,
then try using a slight 5-10 pt increase in teh differential setting,
another modification I use on every car in the 5,35-45,15 breakdown. I
find if you tall up the gear ratio overall, teh diff setting can be set to
10 units higher if needed for faster acceleration. In fact, it's a
wonderful way to balance your car, without finding yourself getting beat
on the top end by other cars (like that'll happen on arcade or sim modes-
this game is way too easy!!).
CAR REVIEW; VOLKSWAGON BEETLE GT:
One of about the only two cars that would be worth the $500,000, would
have to be the Volkswagen Beetle GT. I personally have used it in every race
that the car is legal in. The secret to the "bug" is that it has the VW
Syncros AWD ( some say that Audi's Quattro is the same but it is highly
diffrent ) When you purchase this car you get a 2100 pound car that has 449
bhp. That is 4.68 pounds per bhp, when you compare the same priced Ford
(DORF ) GT-40 ( 7.21 pounds per bhp ), it is worth to buy an AWD, 449 BHP car
that you can use in just about any race ( even in rally races, if your good
enough ). Endurance races with this car are great. The Syncros was designed
to save tires due to the fact that it helps the car out of the corner and
that it has ( in really life , but very little if the car is setup properly )
no wheel spin....
If any one has any thoughts about my opinion on why you should use this car in
GT2 please feel free to email me.
CAR REVIEW: 1998 TOYOTA GT-1 ROAD CAR
Worth It?: Oh hell yeah.
Here's the scoop. This car comes with 591 horsepower, and weighs in at a
startlingly low 1,984 lbs. That's good for a power-to-weight ratio of
nearly .3 But, it doesn't stop there. Unlike a lot of the high-priced
GT-class racecars, the Toyota GT-One Road Car can be upgraded.
The addition of a level 4 Turbine Kit (a mere $74,000) rockets the car's
horsepower to 975! What does that mean you ask? Well, aside from boosting
the power-to-weight ratio from .3 to .5, it means that this car has STUPID
FAST (technical term) acceleration. With the settings I use when driving
mine, the car gets terrible acceleration in 1st and 2nd gear, and only
average acceleration in 3rd gear. Where this car really shines however,
is in 4th through 6th gear. The car climbs the Tachometer in 6th gear like
most cars do in 2nd. The car goes from 100 to 200 mph in an unbelievable
8 seconds. This is faster than a lot of cars go 0-100! All in all, this
is one of the best cars in the game. It's just too fast in the straights
for the other cars to catch it. And with a few liberal driving techniques,
such as using the handbrake to induce rear-end slip, it can even be made to
handle like a dream.
CAR REVIEW: 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z-28
Here's the first of my own car reviews, and I wouldn't mind if everyone's
submissions were similar to this in format (though I'm not expecting this
kind of length, unless you want to ;)
Model: Camaro Z-28
Dealer Price: 37,420
Drivetrain: Front Engine/RWD
Engine: Cast-iron Overhead Valve Smallblock V8
Displacement: 5.7 litres (350 cubic inches)
Horsepower: 299 hp @ 4800 rpm (that's a crock, it's still making
power at 6800)
Torque: 379 ft-lbs @ 3200 rpm
Curb Weight: 3395 lbs (this is a little overweight, but close)
Front Suspension: Unequal length double wishbone
Rear Suspension: Leaf-suspended
History: The 67-69 Camaro is arguably the most popular incarnation of the famous
pony car, and with the Z-28 package available, why shouldn't it be? Chevrolet
built the Camaro specifically as competition for Ford's pony car, the Mustang,
but in addition, they needed a car to compete against the Mustang in SCCA
Trans-Am racing as well; thus the Z-28 was born. Because of the 305 cubic-inch
limit in the Trans-Am class, Chevrolet mated a 283 crank with a 327 block to
produce 302 cubic inches of displacement (see below about this engine).
Installing a high lift, high duration cam along with an aluminum high rise
intake mounted to a 750 cfm Holley 4 barrel, this 302 was waaaay underrated
at 290 horsepower for the street, in actuality making approx. 400 horsepower,
and able to rev well to 7000 rpm. An optional Cross-Ram Intake with twin
Holley 4-bbl Carburators was later offered in 1969.
This engine dropped in the relatively lightweight f-body platform with 4-wheel
disc brakes, limited-slip differntial and road racing suspension made it a
force to be feared both in a straight line and in the corners.
On the drag strip, the Z-28 with the high-revving 302 was capable of
consistant 14-second flat E.T.s on skinny 7" bias plys with next to no
traction. Bolting on a set of modern radials to a bone stock '69 Z-28
rockets it to low 13s in the 1/4... not bad for a 60s smallblock pony car
designed for road racing.
(I know what you're thinking, go try it in the 0-400m and you'll likely
run a low 15 second E.T. when stock... just remember, it's a videogame, not
real life ;)... and besides, it's difficult to get a good launch even with
the analog throttle).
This formula obviously was a success, as the Camaro not only sold in record numbers
on the street and, more importantly, had amazing success in SCCA. Mark Donahue and
Roger Penske gained victory three times in the 1967 season during the Z-28's
"break-in" period, then went on to claim the championship in 1968 with a record 10
out of 13 race wins. Their domination continued with the Camaro, winning the
championship again in 1969.
First off, I'm very pissed off at Sony for not being accurate with this Camaro. The
Z-28 option in the 1967-69 Camaros used the 302 smallblock, and Sony has seen fit
to drop in a 350 (5.7 l) smallblock instead. The 350 smallblock was only available
in the 1969 Camaro (not the Z-28) with a 2-bbl carb making 255 horsepower.
If they strive to give us the classic cars we want, why can't they be
accurate?! Maybe if the designers weren't so damn biased towards Japanese
manufacturers... but I digress...
Gran Turismo 2, I'm happy to say, has faithfully translated the Z-28 (minus the
accuracy of the engine) to be a competitor just as it was in the 60s. When
fully modded, the Z-28 runs close to 440 horsepower from its naturally aspirated
smallblock, and weighs in at a scant 2899 lbs. This gives it more than
enough speed to hang with a lot of the other "mid-card" racecars, though
it's unfortunately not in the league with the GT or LM cars. It's also
rather unfortunate that the designers seemed to overlook the potential of
this engine, when smallblock Chevy's of this type have been seen to make
over 700 horsepower in real life without the aid of a blower or nitrous.
The Z-28, as it was back in 1969, is already a decent handler in stock form, even by
today's standards. But, as it was in 1969, the main problem with its
handling is its pathetic 7" wide bias ply tires. So if you're looking to
remain in basically stock form and just have some fun with this Camaro, the
only thing it's in serious need of is a set of tires. I recommend slicks
of course ;).
The Z-28's Double wishbone front suspension is sturdy and up to the task, one of the main
reasons it's still used today in many sports cars, including the Corvette. After fully
modding the Suspension, the Camaro gets a much needed drop in ride height among other
things, but the only serious suspension tuning tip you need for this car is to set the
rebound on the rear shocks quite low, and the front quite high to get rocketing
acceleration out of the corner. Other than that, consider whether or not you want real
stiff suspension, it's more of a driver preference if you don't mind hanging by a hair
around uneven surfaces. But with the properly tuned suspension this car will have only a
hint of a loose condition on corner exit, with excellent braking characteristics thanks to
its 4-wheel disc brakes.
Probably the best thing about this translation of the Z-28, other than it's obviously
beautiful timeless styling, is how excellently Sony duplicated the sound of the 350
(althought it's supposed to be a 302 dammit!) smallblock. With exhaust
mods, the excellent thrumb of the engine at around 6000 rpm is true music
to the ears.
MY PERSONAL SETTINGS:
Spring Rate: 14.3 in-lb 12.4 in-lb
Ride Height: 97 101
Shock Bound: 8 6
Shock Rebound: 7 4
Camber: 3.2 degrees 0.5 degrees
Toe: +0.05 0.0
Stabilizer: 7 6
Brakes: 19 12
Notes: this setup is best suited for my driving style, which is a
hard-entrance controlled loose condition. The Z-28 with these settings is
an excellent braker and, if braking heavy and entering the apex, can rocket
out of the corner with best possible speed (thanks to the shock settings
allowing for excellent rear weight transfer). The car will get naturally loose
on its own without throttle, but it is a controlled condition during corner entrance.
The downside to this setup is that the car will tend to get more loose on serious throttle
during corner exits. I am currently fooling with the LSD to lessen this while not reducing
acceleration. This will be updated.
CAR REVIEW: Ford GT-40
Dealer Price: 500,000
Drivetrain: Mid-Engine/RWD (MR)
Engine: V8 -
Horsepower: 305 hp @ 6000 rpm
Torque: 327.6 lb-ft @ 4200 rpm
Curb Weight: 2200 lbs
Front Suspension: Double Wishbone
Rear Suspension: Multi-link
This car has great handling and it's pretty difficult to spin out with
it. It's max. speed and acceleration are pretty above average and
handling is above average. It rules on the Red Rock Valley course and
similar courses. It's a car for beginners since it doesn't require much
work to turn corners. Since it's an MR, brake early, turn, and tap
acceleration while turning to make shift weight to the back. Or you can
just brake and turn simultaneously to cause your car to oversteer and
fishtail, but then you countersteer to stop the fishtailing. After you
master the turning with this car, you'll soon find out you don't need to
brake much with this car.
All you need to do is change its tires to Hard in the front, Soft in
the back to reduce oversteering. When you start fishtailing, release
acceleration and countersteer, otherwise you'll still fishtail and might
spinout while trying to countersteer while holding acceleration.
CAR REVIEW: FORD GT-40 RACECAR
Model: [R]GT40 Race Car
Dealer Price: N/A
Drivetrain: Mid-Engine/RWD (MR)
Engine: - -
Horsepower: 492 hp @ 6500 rpm
Torque: 449.8 lb-ft @ 5000 rpm
Curb Weight: 2200 lbs
Front Suspension: N/A
Rear Suspension: N/A
You thought the [R]GT40 was a great car, wait until you look at
this! You have to change it's transmission (decrease the final gear by a
lot) to win in the Gran Turismo All Stars races. It's max. speed is
above average, once you decrease the final gear, acceleration is above
average, and handling is above average. It rules on corners-a-plenty
courses. Everything like in the [R]GT40 applies to this car, except this
car has better acceleration and max speed, but just as good handling.
Remember, though, the faster a car is going, the more understeer there
is, so you have to brake earlier.
Model: [R]FTO LM Edition
Dealer Price: N/A
Engine: - DOHC
Horsepower: 549 hp @ 8500 rpm
Torque: 359.4 lb-ft @ 6000 rpm
Curb Weight: 2050 lbs
Front Suspension: N/A
Rear Suspension: N/A
This car is one of the best EVER! At least in my opinion, that is.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, this car has above average
acceleration and max speed, and has wonderful handling and stability.
This car rules on virtually all courses, as long as it has a lot of
corners. It might not be able to always beat a [R]GT40 Race Car, though,
but that's another story. You can use the [R]FTO LM Edition to race in
any of the Gran Turismo All Stars, GT 300 Championship, or GT 500
Championship races. Even the GT League races, this car rules. You can
even use this car in Rally races, the only car it can't beat is the
Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak Version rally car, it gets a beating against
it, on the Pikes Peak rally races. You can win virtually almost any race
with this car, just put Soft tires in the front and back and you're set
to go. No extra tuning is needed.
17.0 GAMESHARK CODES
Special Thanks to RaysurX and Luke_Skywalker from the granturismo.com
MessageBoard for the codes below. These codes are for the North American version of Gran
Turismo 2 ONLY, using GameShark 2.0 or above. USE THESE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
NOTE: I DO NOT OWN A GAMESHARK AND THUS HAVE A HARD TIME KEEPING UP WITH THE CODES, OR
THINKING UP MY OWN. ANYONE WHO HAS A NICE, THOROUGH LIST, PLEASE SUBMIT THEM AND I'LL POST
IT WITH CREDIT.
NOTE II: IF ONE OF THESE CODES DOES NOT WORK, TALK TO A GAMESHARK WEBSITE OR SOMEONE WITH
ONE, I ONLY GET THEM OFF THE NET JUST LIKE YOU.
-Unlock RALLY Tracks: 800F3656 0009
-Unlock 2p tracks including Rally Tracks that *Street* cars can race on: 800f3658 001c
-Unlock Rally Tracks for 2 Player: 800f365a 0006
-NITROUS "QUICK SHOT-SQUEEZE":
Works only with Dual Shock Analog controllers. Press R3 (right analog stick) to activate at
any point after mid-range RPM in 1st gear: D00A9228 4000
-Unlock Ending Credits: 80052580 0001
Once you enter the "View Credits" screen, disable off the code or the FMV will lock up.
-Hood View w/Joker Commands: D00A9228 0001
Press UP on the D-pad to enable, Press DOWN on the D-pad to disable. You must not be pressing
any other buttons when enabling or disabling the jokers.
-99,999,999 Credits: 801D0FC8 E0FF
-Stop Race Timer (e.g. Licence Tests):
Press up on the D-pad during a race/test to activate. Pressing any other button at the same
time will nullify the action: D00A9228 0001
-Gold Licences: WARNING: DO NOT ACTIVATE ALL LICENSE SETS AT ONCE.. USE ONE AT A TIME, SAVING
BETWEEN EACH LICENSE SET. For example, activate the B-license codes first. Then save, discard
the B-license codes and enter A-license codes, then save, etc...
GOLD LICENSES B:
GOLD LICENSES A:
GOLD LICENSES I-C:
GOLD LICENSES I-B:
GOLD I-A LICENSES:
The best resource for compiling this information is the Gran Turismo Message
board, at http://www.granturismo.com... Thanks especially to HondaKid86, and Jaz
Rignall of IGN (www.ign.com) for posting some real informative documents on GT2.
Also thanks to Tony Lau , game-vamp, Filtered Blue,
Berra Patrice and Kevin Knipp for additional
http://www.videogames.com (189 current screen shots)
http://cars.drip.org (my page :P)
Special thanks go out to all the members of #cars, who have helped spread the
word about the problem of ricing cars (and I don't mean japanese cars, rather
any car that has that kind of tasteless, useless crap done to it--see
http://cars.drip.org/rice.html for the PROPER explanation of this sad
phenomenon), as well as Jason Jamieson, Ryan Jackson, Tyler
Stewart, Jove Malcolm and Sam Reckzin for Gran
Turismo competition, and GT2 competition to come ;).
REMEMBER TO CHECK OUT MY GRAN TURISMO 2 NEWS PAGE FEATURED ON
HTTP://CARS.DRIP.ORG FOR LOTSA GREAT PICS, VIDEO CLIPS, INFO, AND OF COURSE THIS
Wanna talk? You can contact me on IRC (Internet Relay Chat) as tigeraid, #cars,
#fighters.net, #vfhome, #tekken and #capcom.
NEED ALL THE BEST ON-LINE INFO ON FIGHTING GAMES? COME CHECK OUT
FIGHTERS NET AT WWW.FIGHTERS.NET. UNBIASED, HARDCORE INFO ONLY!
"I said it before and I'll say it again--democracy simply doesn't work!"
-Kent Brockman, the Simpsons
REST IN PEACE, #99 GREG MOORE
I'd like to take a short moment to speak my thoughts on the tragedy that befell
Greg Moore at Fontana on October 31st of 1999. He was killed in a crash early
on in the race and pronounced dead 90 minutes later.
Greg Moore was a fellow Canadian racecar driver, and though I never had the
privilage of meeting him in real life, I have been aquainted with his team's PR
reps before. Certainly I don't mean this in an egotisical way, but being a
Canadian racer as well I feel a great loss almost as if he was a personal friend
This just goes to show that there are some serious problems with the design of
these cars. In 4 years, three drivers and five spectators have been killed in
accidents during races in the CART series. This to me shows that's there's
really something wrong with the direction CART is taking. I race oval on a
weekly basis and never exceed speeds of 80 mph (because it's a 1/4 mile oval,
very small--my car's certainly capable of faster). At these speeds, our racing
is close, competitive and very fun to watch. My point is, why the hell do
series like CART have to go so fast? It doesn't make it any more exciting to
watch, it's the competition that counts--NASCAR restricts speeds for safety
reasons and hell, stockcars like these and mine have full bodies and rollcages.
Dale Earndhart, at Daytona two years ago, flipped his car 20 ft in the air,
rolled twice hitting the fence on the front stretch. He got out of the car on
his own, walked to the ambulance, and later, after realizing the engine still
fired, put 4 new tires on it, taped it up and went out and continued the race.
Open wheel cars are just plain too dangerous and feeble to be racing at these
tremendous speeds. Despite the fact that designs of these cars have advanced
greatly since the old days, with the cockpit seperating from the rest of the
shattered car during impact, it's still far too dangerous. It's simple physics-
-the closer the rest of the car is around the driver, the more energy of impact
the driver's body will absorb. The cockpit is very small and tight around the
driver without any frame or tubing to absorb the impact, meaning the walls of
the cockpit and the driver's body still takes most of the impact. This design
seriously needs to be rethought.
I know I'm rambling and this document is supposed to be for Gran Turismo 2. I'm
just so sad at the loss of who is arguably the 2nd best racecar driver our
country has ever produced, next to Gilles Villeneuve, and quite possibly was on
his way to being THE best. But at the same time, I'm incredibly frustrated and
angry that open wheel racing has not taken steps to improve safety, only
Rest in Peace, Greg Moore, you will be sorely missed by your friends, fans, and
END OF DOCUMENT
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